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Thread: Esquire-esque

  1. #121
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Some saddles can cause a buzz - but the barrel saddles shouldn't as they have a string forcing the saddle down at each screw in post.

    I have only had tuners vibrate when the nut has come loose!
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  2. #122
    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    Some saddles can cause a buzz - but the barrel saddles shouldn't as they have a string forcing the saddle down at each screw in post.

    I have only had tuners vibrate when the nut has come loose!
    I noticed that the tuners were vibrating when they were not strung. took a while to figure out where the "fuzzy" sound was coming from. But if the tuner is not strung, the "post" can move a bit.

    My youngest daughter thinks that most of the buzz comes from the bridge and a fainter "tinnier" buzz from the first fret area....

  3. #123
    If:
    capo'd at the first and fretted on the 17th frets - I'm going to guesstimate that the bottom of the string is about 0.5 mm.
    Capo'd at the first fret - I'd say the gap at the 12th is about 2.5 mm for the low E

    To illustrate that string a bit further, if Capo'd at the first fret then at the 21st fret the gap between the fret and the bottom of the E string is 3 mm.

    .......and to reduce the buzz (to only when you really try to get it) I'd have to raise the "E" and "A" saddle a bit more.
    Last edited by EsquireEsque; 15-06-2025 at 07:07 AM.

  4. #124
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    I think TD's right about the saddle. But do check all the screws holding the bridge down. Anything that is not tightened down will rattle. I once thought that my bass had a rattle in the low E...which turned out to the the snare on my son's drum kit that was rattling.

    Couple of things to keep in mind: Always do your buzz tests with ALL strings at at tension and in tune.

    Can tuners buzz? Absolutely! I was having a terrible time getting the buzz out of my acoustic, until Simon Barden on this forum recommended that I tighten the tuner nuts. Voila! (as my Quebecois grandmother used to say). Almost all of the buzz went away. Under tension the geared part should be quiet and the post should not move. If the post will wiggle under tension that could be a problem. I'd recommend tightening anything that can be tightened. I use a "three finger" rule. Tighten everything until it stops using my thumb and two fingers on the screwdriver. EVERYTHING on the tuner: knob, bottom screws, and top nut.

    screw down everything that can be screwed down everywhere on the guitar including the pickguard and pickups if they are on.

    Eyeball the neck from the heel looking up the fretboard to see if there is a twist. If not...

    Redo the fret leveling with a longer stick. I don't think this is the issue, but it's worth a try.

    Use a fresh set of strings. They don't have to be good, just "intact".

    Redo the first three steps in TRAIN:

    Tune
    Relief (get it flat then reset the truss rod--with capo on fret 1)
    Action (set the action at the bridge--with capo on fret 1)

    If you still have a buzz at that point we may need to get out the auto mechanic's stethoscope to figure out where it's coming from!
    Last edited by fender3x; Today at 03:20 AM.

  5. #125
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EsquireEsque View Post
    My youngest daughter thinks that most of the buzz comes from the bridge and a fainter "tinnier" buzz from the first fret area....
    Good thinking choosing the youngest daughter. No doubt the one with the best hearing ;-)

    The faint, thin buzz may be from the capo. If you can tighten it down a bit...

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