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Thread: Resonator build

  1. #21
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    Thanks Trevor yeah I took the saddle off and tried the action like that , it was to my eye a little too low so I will file the saddle but given it’s plastic I think I will invest in a wooden one - looking a buying from southern tonewoods, I need to buy bone saddle for an old classical I have as well. I have a spare bone nut I will sand down a little and use. The neck is straight.

    Yes I will put electric strings on it, any more thoughts about a pickup, again southern tonewoods has one that seems ok. There are others but a bit expensive

    Thank you
    graham

  2. #22
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Southern Tonewoods seem reasonably priced!

    I have not looked at a pickup for my resonator. I'm not sure if a piezo type pickup would be better suited than a coil type!

    As far as setting the neck angle for the resonator: I think the action should be clearly low when the saddle is off and the strings are just resting on the spider.

    I'm not sure if there is a good rule for quickly working out if you have a good neck angle! I read on a Benedetto Archtop site that a "rule of thumb" for a "good" neck angle is that a straight edge sitting on the fret plane should touch the bridge in its lowest possible setting. I have not tried this! Maybe for the Resonator this could be the spider with no bridge!
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  3. #23
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    More info

    Thanks Trevor
    Last edited by Tgraham; 05-05-2025 at 11:01 AM. Reason: I forgot some info

  4. #24
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    I tried the straight edge on the fret plane thing, the bottom of the straight edge lines up just under the top to the bridge channel with no bridge in.
    I tried the bridge set up that is suggested by stew Mac - this didn’t seem to work well with my kit, using their measurements my bridge would be 20/32 I.e. 5/8 inch high.
    Also the bridge is way below the underside of the hand rest of the cover plate, they suggest that the strings should be touching prior to tensioning them.

    Trevor do you have any idea of how far you bridge was depressed when the strings were on and in tune? Reading internet stuff some said 1/4 to 1/2 inch depression

    This is a whole new ballgame to other guitars

  5. #25
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    Straight edge on fret plane

    Pics of straight edge showing height on bridge channel -
    Pic showing height of bridge below cover plate hand rest - bridge is still original size for now
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  6. #26
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tgraham View Post
    I tried the straight edge on the fret plane thing, the bottom of the straight edge lines up just under the top to the bridge channel with no bridge in.
    I tried the bridge set up that is suggested by stew Mac - this didnÂ’t seem to work well with my kit, using their measurements my bridge would be 20/32 I.e. 5/8 inch high.
    Also the bridge is way below the underside of the hand rest of the cover plate, they suggest that the strings should be touching prior to tensioning them.

    Trevor do you have any idea of how far you bridge was depressed when the strings were on and in tune? Reading internet stuff some said 1/4 to 1/2 inch depression

    This is a whole new ballgame to other guitars
    Yes, this part terrified me also! And was all new to me.

    I also did not like the Stewmac bridge suggestion, or the idea that the strings should be just under the coverplate. Those ideas did not work with my build. Definitely, the string were not touching (or near) the underside of the hand rest.

    I'm not sure how much the cone/spider/bridge assembly compressed with strings! When pressing down on the cone I thought it moved only a few mm.

    I feel that you may want to shim the lower end of neck socket a touch to increase the neck angle compared to the body. Maybe try a 1mm thick shim (or some plastic to test the idea). This should get the straight edge (resting on the fretboard) to be a bit above the bridge support, and lower the action when the strings are on. But check with the strings on again! Lots of trial and testing needed! Maybe you should order a couple of wooden bridges.

    Looking at my wooden bridge now, see link, it is sitting quite low in the support - and my strings are set very high.
    Last edited by Trevor Davies; 05-05-2025 at 05:33 PM.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  7. #27
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    Thanks Trevor yes these is lots of trial and error with the setup of these guys that’s for sure. I will make some different size shims and some throw away bridges at the men’s shed tomorrow.
    Started applying “swamp green” to the back of the body, I think it needs to darker or more dirty swampy looking, several coats of wipe on poly will bring out the underlying pattern of the wood. Slowly slowly.
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  8. #28
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Are you using a clear that will darken it? If it has some yellowing in it that might do the trick... Nice figuring!

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