Esquire-esque

[EsquireEsque]

Well - what a difference.....

I took the nut out today and filed the back of it down about 1.5mm (nerve wracking!).

it kept on wearing away on one end more than the other and on a slant as well - so I had to check it every couple of strokes.....

It is now "playable" acoustically (it's not wired up).


The frets are a worry - a "tap" on them failed to get them to "go in" if they were raised - I seem to have a few frets that refuse to be tapped back into the fretboard (I can still get a piece of paper to slide underneath the ends)..... I'm wondering if they've been glued in place.

The nut is only held in place by the strings - When I level the frets I don't want to hit the nut and cause any damage.

It's plastic and took a few knocks to get it out. I noticed that the slot was not flat at the bottom (I think it was not completed properly). I didn't have a tool suitable for deepening the slot without also taking away from the sides - so that's why I filed the nut.

Didn't have enough time to make a levelling beam, unfortunately. That'd be the cheapest option - but I still might get a radiusing block and level with that.



Still a little fretbuzz - but I also checked the intonation when I put the strings back on - and it's very nearly right... I was quite shocked. Just got to figure out how to set it properly on a three-barrel bridge (which I've decided I do not like - I much prefer the "modern" 6 saddle bridge).

I think I've learned enough to "go the TRANI" and set it up properly at some stage.



I glued another body blank together today as well .......

[fender3x]

Just got to figure out how to set it properly on a three-barrel bridge (which I've decided I do not like - I much prefer the "modern" 6 saddle bridge).

I decided to go the six-saddle route as well, but if you want to keep it stock you might consider ordering a set of compensated saddles:

[EsquireEsque]

I decided to go the six-saddle route as well, but if you want to keep it stock you might consider ordering a set of compensated saddles:

It's not the intonation that I don't like - I can probably work that out - it's more that they're uncomfortable if you put the heel of your hand on them to partially mute the string (both with the grub screws and the twisted end of the strings (i prefer top loaded bridges).

It's a pity as I like the look of the three barrels, particularly if brass, also the six-barrel bridges (but I understand these have a few problems.....)

[fender3x]

I had a Strat bridge where the grub screws were bothering my hand. I got advice from someone here (McCreed, maybe?) to get shorter grub screws. I found an assortment cheap somewhere so now anytime a grub screw bothers my palm, I replace it with a shorter one ;-)

I like the Stew Mac tool as well. They are always great for the independently wealthy luthier. They are, ridiculously expensive, no mater where you live. $420 US as shown in the vid. If I find a loose fret, I will either use the radius block trick, or adapt a one handed clamp to do it.

I think the wood block is a fine idea. You'd want a relatively hard wood. I have a hammer that I have a cheap hammer with replaceable hard plastic ends that has worked relatively well for me, but you do need to have something reasonably hard under the neck, as you found out.

[EsquireEsque]

I had a Strat bridge where the grub screws were bothering my hand. I got advice from someone here (McCreed, maybe?) to get shorter grub screws. I found an assortment cheap somewhere so now anytime a grub screw bothers my palm, I replace it with a shorter one ;-)

I like the Stew Mac tool as well. They are always great for the independently wealthy luthier. They are, ridiculously expensive, no mater where you live. $420 US as shown in the vid. If I find a loose fret, I will either use the radius block trick, or adapt a one handed clamp to do it.

I think the wood block is a fine idea. You'd want a relatively hard wood. I have a hammer that I have a cheap hammer with replaceable hard plastic ends that has worked relatively well for me, but you do need to have something reasonably hard under the neck, as you found out.

How do you adapt a "one handed clamp to it"..... I'm getting ideas as I type - but if you've already got it down I'd love to see how you actually do it.
Do you have a piece of wood with a "bump" on either end to press down on the fret ends?