First build

[Tgraham]

Had my thread in the wrong place sorry guys but you’ve all been a great help.

FH3TL kit arrived, unpacked, dry fit, some minor sanding of neck and pocket, a lot of sanding of body and neck.

Looked at wiring now looking at locating pvc shielded wire.
Figuring how to get all the bits in place when wired - ideas?

Stained and clear coated neck - looks great

Practicing patience ( not my strongest attribute)

Cheers
Graham

[fender3x]

You kind of already started your build diary...so here's a link to where it all began ;-)

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...505#post228505

I don't know the kit, although I have built a couple of semi-hollows. I love them, but getting the wiring in place is a huge PITA, in part because all of the electronics need to go in through the F-holes. It's still a pain in a fully-hollow if they can go in through the pickup hole, but it's a bit better.

I tend to use mini pots rather than full sized pots, which are easier to get through the small holes. Also, a "fat-bat" toggle mini-switch is also easier to get through the hole than the big ones that come with the kits.

You'll want to make a template of the control layout out of cardboard, Masonite or thin plywood (~3-4mm). That way you can make the wiring harness outside the body. I made a rubbing of the top to know where to put the holes. If you are doing a standard Gibson-style wiring harness, you should be able to use coaxial cable between the pots and to the switch. Since you can't shield the cavity, coax may provide some benefits. If the wiring is complex, I have also used a tinned, braided cable sleeving and use the sleeve to ground each of the components. Either the coax or the sleeve will make the wiring harness a bit stiffer and easier to install. I use thin wires to pull the pots, jack and switch into place.

[Tgraham]

Thanks for the ideas, I watched a guy on utube reinstalling pots etc on a hollow body omg what a pain, made a cardboard template bought some extra wire just in case. Nearly finished neck and body will post pics soon. So far it’s been quite an adventure.
Cheers
Graham

[neverwas]

Something to consider for the wiring is not being able to see it go across the f-hole. I did an ES-3 (now designated FH-3) a while back and made it 'loop' around the bottom of the f-hole

I used vintage braided wire for the long runs and cloth covered wire for the rest. Braided wire can be the ground connection between the pots without using a separate wire. The heatshrink was to help shape the harness and stop the outer braid from contacting any pot tabs or capacitor legs.

Grant

[Tgraham]

Thanks Grant

[fender3x]

Something to consider for the wiring is not being able to see it go across the f-hole.

Good advice!! I had forgotten about that. You would think I'd learn from my mistakes. The only thing worse than installing the harness in a semi-hollow is having to re-install it because you forgot that you don't want the wires visible from the F-hole. I actually have the F-hole drawn on my template to remind me where it is when I am soldering the harness.

[Tgraham]

Well I think I’ve finished my first build but cannot upload photos- any clues?
It went pretty well for a first, lots of things to learn and figure out.
It plays ok the action is a bit high near the nut, Ive good super slinky strings on it atm will change them I think.
The help that you guys gave was brilliant it helped me going down the rabbit hole several times so,a huge thank you to everyone.
Might think about next build now hmmm resonator maybe
Many thanks
graham

[Trevor Davies]

Hi Tgraham.

Re the photos, they cannot be too big in file size. The longest edge "I think" has to be 1000 pixels or less! Try reducing the size and try again.

Re the high action at the nut - the nut probably needs the string slots deepened. Most kit nuts are too high! Maybe some nut slot files need to be on the wish list!

and +1 for the resonator. Lots of fun.

[WeirdBits]

Max 1500px per side and < 1MB file size.

[Tgraham]

Finally got photo uploaded