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Thread: Building a BC-1 guitar for my son

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by fender3x View Post
    I have had the dust/pebble effect before. As TD said, could be distance. Could also happen when it's really hot and/or dry out. Either way it's generally caused by some of the paint drying before hitting the surface. You could try getting closer. I'd also check the temperature ranges it's supposed to be painted in, and if it cares about humidity.

    It may not matter with a primer coat, since you may not care much what it looks like once you sand flat. With a color coat I have had decent luck with MTN 94 spray paints. I have gotten the dust effects or occasional blotches when the nozzle gets a little old, but they have sanded out well. I am not sure what a hammered look spray paint looks like--although I am looking forward to seeing one here ;-) The primer I had pebbles with was Duplicolor. Although it sanded out well, I no longer use Duplicolor because the colored spray paint does not react well to the heat and humidity of the place I live. The primer did fine though.
    Morning all - yes Fender3x and Trevor - I think you hit the nail on the head. I did a light sand to take the "dust" off and re-sprayed a fair bit closer. It is much smoother and feels "right". Good call. I'll give it a light 400 sand, and another coat of primer at the better distance. Thanks.

    I've attached a couple of pics of a hammered copper paint I used for a turntable pre-amp I made. It's quite a nice effect.
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  2. #32
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    That is a nice effect! Hope it works out on the guitar!

  3. #33

    NBody and neck - paint the same colour?

    Quote Originally Posted by fender3x View Post
    That is a nice effect! Hope it works out on the guitar!
    Thanks! I'm hopeful too.

    It just occurred to me as I work through the primer coats on the body - do people typically paint the neck the same colour as the body? I've just noticed the neck sitting there with the masking tape on it from fret checking - and thought hey! something's going to need to be done with that!!!

    What do you folks typically do with your necks?

    I do have a rub-in darkish oak-tinted stain, and that might look ok with the darkish hammered metal body - but having neck and body the same might be best? Any thoughts welcome!

  4. #34
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Hi Barno,

    as far as the neck goes - anything goes!

    With my painted guitars they all have the same colour neck and headstock! [Note to self - mix it up more!] With my stained guitars it is a mixture with some having the same colour stain as the body, some are natural, some are stained a different colour to the body.

    Having a look at the BC Rich website, they do lots of different things as well! I quite like the part painted, part natural look!

    You may not want the hammered look paint on the back of the neck as it may feel bumpy! Maybe a combo! Sprayed headstock and heel of neck with a natural neck. Go crazy!
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  5. #35
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Not much to add to TD's post.

    Fender's mostly finish their necks in a natural or tinted/stained finish. Gibson, Gretsch and Rickenbacker tend to finish the neck like the guitar. BC Rich's are uncommon enough that I think you can pretty much do what you want without calling you on it. Most bolt-ons are finished natural-ish, but that's probably because most bolt-ons are copies, or at least variations on a Fender theme.

    FWIW, I think the hammered paint look would look great on the headstock, but I don't think I'd use it on the back of the neck. Most people don't finish an ebony or rosewood fingerboard...but Rickenbacker does, and if you like that look you can too ;-)

    Talking about that, I am curious whether you'll put a clear coat over the hammered finish? I have been using a satin finish on necks, because I like the feel better than gloss or semigloss. I have been using semigloss on bodies since I learned that it flattens a bit better than semigloss. I also use semigloss now on the top of the headstock. One thing I would recommend to anyone is to do a thumb test with whatever finish you plan to use on the back of the neck. When you run your thumb along the back some finishes (particularly the glossier ones) can feel "sticky." To me, the satin finishes feel less sticky and faster. I actually used to keep a maroon sanding pad around to satin-ize a couple of my glossy necked guitars.

  6. #36

    Painting in progress

    Hi folks, I'm one coat in with the hammered paint. My son isn't a (yet) fast guitar player so not too worried about the "speed" of the paint on the back. if he gets good, I suspect he'll get us, I mean, me to make him another guitar haha

    I've decided to go all over with the hammered paint. I found a youtube video about this type of paint that noted if you hold the can back a little =, the hammering is less noticeable. So, I'm doing this for the back of the neck. The guitar body and head will get closer painting.

    This paint apparently comes up a nice finish without clear, which is a bit unusual. I found this when spraying my headphone amp. I am tempted just to give it a single clear coat at the end. If I sand it even with 1500, 2000 sandpaper it might damage the hammered effect.

    I'm leaving it 2-3 days between coats, aiming to get 3 full coats.

    I'm also cutting some decorative copper panels (approx 0.2mm thick) to add to the guitar head and body too - I'll send pics when they're done (he wanted some copper on it)

    I'll report back!!

  7. #37
    Overlord of Music dave.king1's Avatar
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    Not knowing what brand paint you are using I've had problems with SCA acrylic clear coat sticking to the pads on my guitar racks.

    I'm planning to give the TL & ST a light rub back and redo the clear coat with wipe on poly, none of my other builds used SCA clear and haven't given the same problem

  8. #38
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    You may want to do a test piece with and without clear. One coat won't give you much protection...but you may not need it at all. I am definitely not an expert, and know nothing at all about hammered look paint...But I'd be inclined either to use more clear or no clear. But the best advice can probably give you is to contact the paint mfg and ask them what they think would be best ;-) Most of the time when I have done this they have mostly given good advice, and generally I get a response relatively quickly.

  9. #39
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave.king1 View Post
    Not knowing what brand paint you are using I've had problems with SCA acrylic clear coat sticking to the pads on my guitar racks...
    This is why I no longer use Duplicolor. I am not blaming the mfg. It is probably related to the heat and humidity of the place where I spray...but since I don't control the weather and don't like paint that sticks where it shouldn't and doesn't stay stuck where it should...

  10. #40
    Hi folks, I did some more research and my finding is that if you leave at least 3 days between coats, no clear is needed.

    So I did 3 coats, front and back with 3-4 days in between and it looks pretty nice really. Still has its own nice gloss - not excessive and is fairly smooth. So I think it's alright.

    This weekend I get to put it all together and hope I do it in the right order! (something like neck to body, headstock nuts, bridge etc, pickups, wiring.... and hoping it all works!!)

    I have 17 days before son's birthday so I'm hoping I can get it done and tested (I'll play a few notes upside down as I'm left-handed) before his birthday.

    thanks all for the notes etc so far... I'm sure I'll have a few more questions as I head into the final straight

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