Project #6 - The TD Tele

[Trevor Davies]

Hi XP Rider. I may feel slightly abandoned! No, do what you want. And now you have an excuse to get another kit for the black TD tele!

The strat style guitar that you based it off was actually stained!

So, what is your new plan?

[dave.king1]

The pic is the right way up when you enlarge it.

I rather like the black hardware, definitely a change up from the usual chrome or gold as I have on my Tele & other T style guitars

[fender3x]

Sorry it is up-side down. I tried to fix that but without success.

Looking good. You won't have the same issues with this on that you had with the set neck. F-style guitars are much more forgiving.

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[XP Rider]

Thanks for the comments, all 3. Guess I am back to square 1 on finish, here. Possibly maple stain or something with a reddish tint? I'm open to suggestions as to how to bring the grain out, and what color might be best. I have both black and white pick guards, depending on which seems the best fit. Headstock may come next.

[Trevor Davies]

To bring out the grain and give a reddish tint! On my TLA-1 build I used a black grain filler and then a Jarrah stain. That worked well! Check out https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post213343.

I did a similar process with my STA-1HT, but used a reddish ink. https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=12089&p=221745&viewfull=1#post221 745.

Both these were finished with tru-oil.

[fender3x]

My best effort so far was on my "batwing precision. https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...=10529&page=11

I didn't do anything to bring out the grain. I just used General Finishes Empire Red Dye Stain with about 10% GF High Performance top coat added to prevent blotchyness. I also tried some Craftnique (Crystalac) red gel stain. I didn't really like the Craftnique by its self, but it helped to even out the color when used over the GF stain with a cap of platina shellac over it. On most woods the GF dye stain would have been pretty even--particularly with a little top coat mixed in. But paulownia is worse than pine for blotchiness, and takes some additional measures. FWIW ;-)

[XP Rider]

Yeah, I am still alive up here. Been busy with a banjo and a saddle, but I'd better get serious with this build. I'm posting a photo of the headstock roughed out (Rough! Looks like is was gnawed out by a mad beaver). I only broke one coping saw blade, and should break down and buy myself a little jig saw. I'm attacking it now with a hoof rasp, and it will come along. Somewhere between a Tele and a Strat for design, I think.

Hope Christmas was great for everyone. We had the whole fan-damly here on Christmas Eve and needed a day or two to recover. So, Happy Hannukah, Happy New Year, etc. Thanks for always being there.

[Trevor Davies]

A maple headstock is very hard to cut with a coping saw, so 1 months work sounds about right.

[fender3x]

1+

Maple is tough. I am not good with coping saw and have not used one for a headstock. I have done it several ways, but my go-to first tool is a jig saw. I get it to roughly the way you have it...but a jigsaw in 1/2” maple is imprecise (at least in my hands. The bottom of the blade tends to wander on curves, so I can't get too close to the pencil line.

My grandfather had hoofing rasps. I use wood rasps to even it up a bit and take off a bit more material. I haven't seen a hoofing rasps since I was in high school, but I think it should be pretty similar to wood rasps I have. Pretty sure that hoof is softer than maple though.

I finish with a router or, more recently and improvised spindle sander on my small drill-press, which obviates the need for a template.

I think most people use a power tool (saw, rotary, sander, router) for at least part of it. But there are some hearty folks who do the whole thing with hand tools.

That said I think you are the first I have seen use a tool designed for a horse!

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[XP Rider]

Well, in this dry country in late summer, those hoofs can get about as hard as flint. Maybe you don't have that problem down in the south. I got a pair of front shoes on my little mare last summer, but, truth to tell, I'm about aged out of that business. Back and legs won't take it.

Headstock looks pretty good, at least it passes TD's 3-foot rule (maybe 5 feet for my work?). I'm on my 3rd go at filling a chip the coarse rasp took out of the face. Wipe with wet cloth, sand, and apply maple stain. I like the color and have used it on all my necks.