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Thread: Varitone Switch Circuit

  1. #1
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Varitone Switch Circuit

    For a future build I intend to try a Varitone circuit, just to try something different. I have done some research about this on-line and from this forum.

    I still have a couple of questions that hopefully can be answered by this forum.

    1. Does the type of capacitor, ceramic/greencap etc really matter?

    2. Does the Varitone circuit work with the normal tone circuit, or do you use one or the other (and switch between them)?

    3. I have seen some Varitone circuits with just capacitors, and some with capacitors and resistors. Is there an advantage with using the capacitor/resistor combo?

    I would greatly appreciate any advice and suggestions.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  2. #2
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    For a future build I intend to try a Varitone circuit, just to try something different. I have done some research about this on-line and from this forum.

    I still have a couple of questions that hopefully can be answered by this forum.

    1. Does the type of capacitor, ceramic/greencap etc really matter?

    2. Does the Varitone circuit work with the normal tone circuit, or do you use one or the other (and switch between them)?

    3. I have seen some Varitone circuits with just capacitors, and some with capacitors and resistors. Is there an advantage with using the capacitor/resistor combo?

    I would greatly appreciate any advice and suggestions.
    Hopefully Wierdbits will chime in if anything gets too off track here. I have not wired one of these yet, but I did find a pretty good article...

    https://www.premierguitar.com/pro-ad...d-and-extended

    In the article they make a case for different kinds of caps of the same value on a varitone "for jazz." I don't really buy it. There can be very subtle differences between caps, but they are generally too subtle for me to hear. I have heard that ceramic caps are sometimes better with higher frequencies. The article suggests that paper-in-oil caps may sound warmer and that orange drop caps sound more scooped. I don't think I believe there is much audible difference, but I have never A-B'd them. I have A-B's orange drop and green (or red) "chicklet" caps. There is no difference that I could hear.

    FWIW I don't think there is much evidence that Fender or Gibson thought there was any difference in types of caps. My G&L, which is one of the last basses that Leo Fender designed used chicklet caps. I think he used orange drop caps when he could get them cheaply, and both are more durable and reliable than paper-in-oil caps. I generally think the cost and durability of the chicklets make them attractive.

    The other thing that I like about chicklet caps is that they tend to be small. The old, massive orange drops were made to handle lots of voltage, which you really don't need in a guitar circuit. In a varitone switch small caps and small resistors are likely to fit better. You can use the smallest ones you can get because your are only dealing with microvoltages from the pickups.

    Just my $.02 Given all the opinions about this on the internet, there appear to be people who not only know how many angels are dancing on the head of a pin, they can also here the music they are dancing to.

    I think the most common way of wiring them is with just caps or with caps and a resistor as in the article or with just one resistor as in most diagrams. I think the function of the resistor is to prevent or at least reduce the popping sound when switching between caps, so it is probably worth adding.

    I think there are different ways of wiring a varitone, but the most common seems to be to put it between the volume pot and the jack, or the output from the pickup selector switch and the jack. The first setting on most varitones is "bypass" so it would be out of the circuit until turn the dial. You could also use it instead of the tone pot.

  3. #3
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Thanks again fender3x.
    The premier guitar article was useful.

    I may use a mini toggle switch to turn on the varitone circuit. I know the idea of the first (bypass) setting is to not use the varitone, but I think I like the idea that the setting can be preselected before it is needed. I will keep thinking!

    I have acquired a couple of rotary switches, chicken-head dials, mini toggles, caps and resistors. So, I am committed now!
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  4. #4
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Switches and chicken heads definitely fit the Mockingbird aesthetic ;-)
    Last edited by fender3x; 12-07-2024 at 03:48 AM.

  5. #5
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fender3x View Post

    Switches and chicken heads definitely fit the Mockingbird aesthetic ;-)
    Yes, I agree.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

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