Project #5, AG #2

[Trevor Davies]

I'm glad you got the missing pieces. Are the photos from your phone?

[XP Rider]

Here is one, body only. Photos are from my daughter's phone, and when I saved them to my computer, they were saved as .jfjf files. Changed them over to .jpeg, and the one above is the only one of the proper size to be uploaded. We'll have to work on that. And, Trevor, I hear the same little voices in my head. I saw a bumper sticker that read, "It's not hoarding if it's guitars." Yeah.

[Trevor Davies]

Here is one, body only. Photos are from my daughter's phone, and when I saved them to my computer, they were saved as .jfjf files. Changed them over to .jpeg, and the one above is the only one of the proper size to be uploaded. We'll have to work on that. And, Trevor, I hear the same little voices in my head. I saw a bumper sticker that read, "It's not hoarding if it's guitars." Yeah.

"It's not hoarding if it's guitars." Haha. I like that! I might get the T-shirt.


For my phone photos - I email them to myself and save them onto my computer from my email account. The emailing process also allows me to reduce the size of the pictures.

Also - the body looks good. How do you intend to finish it?

[fender3x]

I can't remember. Is this a bolt on? In any case glad you're back.

FWIW...There is a very simple program that I have used for years for cropping and resizing images called Irfanview. It's free, and relatively easy if all you want to do is change the image type, resize, crop of make panorama images.

https://www.irfanview.com

[XP Rider]

Thanks to both for the suggestions. I'll keep trying.

Well, things move slowly. but they do move. Got the headstock shaped, and isn't symmetry a bear. I was making such slow progress with the rasp that I got out the Dremel. Those puppies can get away from you in a hurry. The old nut did not come off without a fight, and did not come off cleanly, but I hope I have it adequately cleaned up. I am ordering a Graphtec nut from StewMac. I have never gigged with one of my project guitars, but I might try this one if it turns out well. Frets are crowned, dressed and polished. The burrs on the fret ends took a lot less work than I expected. Neck is sanded and ready for stain. Looks like Old Masters Maple Wiping Stain again. I don't much like any of the other stains in my cupboard. Back to Sheels for TruOil next week.

[XP Rider]

Progress, although quietly. This is the color. No clear coat yet, so no glossy finish. I started with a coat of black Timbermate, whether it needed it or not (basswood), then tried several coats of Cherry Red ColorTone liquid stain, but I did not like the direction it was going. Not enough grain texture to make a stain finish interesting. So after sanding back, several coats of Artist's Loft Deep Red acrylic. Hope it workes when the hardware is all installed.
Neck got a couple of coats of Old Masters' Maple Wiping Stain, which gives a color I like a lot. I'm now about half way through about 25 coats of TruOil with sanding at intervals, which gives a great feel. When sanding, I'm reminded to keep the coats thin.
Working on the wiring now. This kit has a pretty complex wiring system, nothing pre-soldered, and the Pitbull wiring diagram is slightly different from the one supplied by Seymour Duncan. Probably either will work.
Question: Each pot has 3 little loop tabs. Are all equivalent, or do they make different connections? Thanks.

[Trevor Davies]

Looking good XP Rider.

As far as the pot tabs go - they are not all equivalent. The outside tabs (end terminals) are the ones that connect to either end of the actual resistor, while the centre tab is the connection that goes to the sliding contact which can be moved and varied.

The Pitbull wiring normally has the volume pot with one end connected to ground (soldered to the back of the pot), the pup hot wire is connected to the other end connection (this is the volume input), and the centre tab is the volume output which then goes to the tone pot. A low volume output uses a large resistance between the input and output (the sliding contact is far from the input terminal), while a high volume output uses a small resistance between the input and output (the sliding contact is close to the input terminal).

For these pots, the flow of the current does not really matter. So, the same result can be created by switching the positions of the volume input and the volume output. So, having the hot wire from the pup to the centre tab and the volume output being the end tab works the same way.

NOTE: our guitar circuit diagrams show the backs of the pots (not the top).

[Trevor Davies]

@ XP Rider: Which Seymore Duncan wiring diagram are you using?

[XP Rider]

Thanks for the excellent clarification on pot wiring, Trevor. Keeps me out of trouble. I am working on everything upside-down, with the knob towers stuck thru a piece of cardboard.
The Seymour Duncan diagram is for 1 P90/ 1 PHAT CAT/ 2 Volume/ 2 Tone. 3 Way Toggle. I am actually following the PBG diagram with my wiring.

[Trevor Davies]

The Seymore Duncan diagram for the 2 humbuckers, 2 vol, 2 tone and 3 way toggle is the same as the PB.

FWIW, I always get the switch upside down. Try to make sure the wires to the switch are a little longer so that it can be rotated around 180 degrees.

It's not too big a problem with the SG, since the switch is in the same cavity. On the LP styles it is more painful.