Build diary ES-1F

[vicsing]

Well, received my ES-1F and started a mock up of the finished piece. A few minor dings in the veneer, nothing much. Watched all (most) of the videos and downloaded the wiring diagram. I've got a background in both woodwork and electronics (a bit), so I'm not too worried about that. I'm only a beginner musician though so that side is what troubles me the most.

Got a couple of questions to start. My kit is a ES-1F hollow body, but I can only find a wiring diagram for a ES-1G semi hollow body. When I click on featured guitar ES-1G it links to ES-1F, so I'm thinking there is not much difference. Does anyone know the difference?

As a woodworker I'm leaning towards a natural finish either livos ardvos oil or shellac. Anyone have any experience of these? I'm also tempted to use techniglue (a two part epoxy) to glue the neck to the body, but I also have west systems and PVA?

Finally anyone have experience with Feast Watson Prooftint stain from Bunnings as an alternative to Dingotone, if I decide to slightly darken the wood colour?

[Dikkybee007]

Most people here will tell you to use PVA, normally Titebond, but I normally use just Selleys Aquadhere as it is easy to get and have never had a neck come loose. You use what ever you want as the design of how to remove the neck is virtually impossible due to the shape. I would normally use a steel painters pallet knife and heat with a heat gun and work it in until the neck comes loose. You can use a heat gun and heat the guitar body and neck but of course it doesn't always work and you will damage the finish on guitar and neck. Just make sure you do it right the first time. I never worry about having to remove the neck to fix the guitar as they are so cheap to begin with if there is a problem or the neck breaks I would just throw it away.

As for the Feast Watson I use the products on all my guitars as they are easy to get. Always use the reducer to make the colour lighter as it is easier to make darker than to try and make the colour lighter once applied to the guitar. Make up a solution and try it on a test piece of wood until you get the shade you want, try a piece of pine as it is similar to the guitar body material. Always follow the instructions and the product will give you what you want and expect. The only time people here have problems is they do it their way and then blame the product.

[Trevor Davies]

Not sure of the difference between ES-1F and ES-1G. Looking at the Photo Gallery of ES-1G - I think they may be the same.

I also love the FW stains and have used them a lot. I agree with Dickybee about using reducer and testing (with your final finish also) on similar coloured wood. I think the only trouble I had was when using with sanding sealer!

[fender3x]

I didn't know you could get a fully hollow body in that shape. Since it is drilled for a switch and 2V+2T it should use the standard ES or LP wiring harness setup. There are variations on it if you want them but the standard one will work fine at least.