First build EX-1E

[Trevor Davies]

Hi Trevor.
It was at the lowest possible as it was not en en screwed, but rather had lots of masking tape around the posts.


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When you use the Bridge inserts, which have a lip around the top of them, the posts (and bridge) will be sitting about 2 mm higher again.

[juan_ibanez]

Ahh ok thanks.
Will go ahead and glue in the position where the strings are closer then
Thanks a lot for that


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[juan_ibanez]

Ok so the glueing seems to have been good. But have several questions for what I have to do next (questions at the end of the post)



Now starting to shift into the painting of it.
The plan is as follows:
1. Fill the small gap in the neck with wood putty I guess timber would do the trick?).


2. Do the grain fill with epoxy.
3. Sand
4. Spray the SCA acrylic primer/sealer (3 layers)
5. Sand.
6. Spray the white SCA acrylic colour (3 layers).
7. Add the waterslide decals.
8. Spray the acrylic clear coats.
9. Wet sand and polish.

Questions:
A. Drilling holes. Should I do it now or after finishing? So say the humbucker/tuners/resize pot holes now or when I’m done painting ?
B. Is it worth doing step 1? Might be that the epoxy and multiple layers of paint might cover it but not sure.
C. The clear coats, have seen a couple videos where they advise to use 2k clear as it dries faster and harder (live in Brisbane and it’s about to get warm and humid). But still makes me wonder if it’s worth it or not.

Any other advise is well received.


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[Trevor Davies]

As far as the questions go:

A: Most folks do the drilling after the wet sanding. I think I would resize pot holes before painting. This question has come up a bit lately (but I cannot find it).

B: Did you mean timbermate putty? I think I have read that timbermate is not good under a painted finish as it tends to swell.

I cannot assist with C .

[juan_ibanez]

Good point about the putty. Yes I meant timbernate putty. And hadn’t thought of the swelling. Will see if maybe the epoxy step will cover that gap (it’s not that big)

Yeah might do the pot resize when the pickups arrive (due like end of the week)

Thanks a lot


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[fender3x]

I think Timbermate filler has been used successfully on neck joint issues like yours, as long as it is completely dry before painting. Would be curious what you have heard TD? I know that sometimes a water based finish can re-activate water-based products that it goes over, but I had not hear that about Timbermate?

Whatever the risk I don't think I would use epoxy around the neck joint. One of the reasons for using a water-based glue and water-based filler around the gap is so that you could get the neck off with some steam or heat if you ever needed to reset or replace it.

[Trevor Davies]

I think Timbermate filler has been used successfully on neck joint issues like yours, as long as it is completely dry before painting. Would be curious what you have heard TD? I know that sometimes a water based finish can re-activate water-based products that it goes over, but I had not hear that about Timbermate?

Whatever the risk I don't think I would use epoxy around the neck joint. One of the reasons for using a water-based glue and water-based filler around the gap is so that you could get the neck off with some steam or heat if you ever needed to reset or replace it.

I'm not sure where I got the info about "timbermate not to be used under painted finishes". I assume this is for oil based paint! It must have come from this forum. But it is written as a warning in my notes

[fender3x]

I also think having the strings set lower would be better - definitely easier to raise the bridge. But how was the bridge held in position when the photos were taken?

FWIW, I agree. You want to make sure you check with the bridge a few mm higher than the surface of the body to accommodate for the flanges on the post ferule and the post itself. One mm is not excessively low if the neck is flat and the strings are not under much tension. Even having the strings touch the frets should not be a problem at this stage, since the neck is not at tension yet.

You might also want to check, and if necessary adjust the truss rod (very carefully), to make sure it's completely flat for your test. Should not take more than a quarter turn to get it flat if it's not. This would be a good time to get a notched straight edge (or make one) to test the flatness of the neck ;-) They're cheap to make, and not that much more to buy.

[juan_ibanez]

Hi. Yup, actually had done the fret leveling just beforehand so the neck was completely flat.
thanks for that

[juan_ibanez]

So, the gap fill and grain fill is now done. Now moving to painting..
Any suggestions given that the neck is already set? have seen a couple setups to do the painting but they are always when the neck and body are separate.
So was thinking either hanging it from the tuner holes or screwing in a hook from the base (where the strap button will go.
Ok actually found one where the guitar is screwed in the pickup cavity but not super sure of that one.

Any thoughts on what would be a good Idea given that I have never done any of that ?


Thanks in advance.