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Thread: TL-1TB Build

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  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by fender3x View Post
    Yeah, the nut looks high, but when doing a setup the nut is either the last or next-to-last thing to adjust.
    I do it first. Set and forget so to say. Then I go as per TRAIN system and never go back to nut. But I guess it can be done at any time.

    I strongly advise against cutting dipper slots in the nut. Only if you 100% know what you're doing and have done a million nuts before. The shape of the cut, its angle etc are super important. It's part of the whole playability and tone equation (or coupling as pros call it). I use actual strings, short pieces of them glued to paddle pops' edges, to slightly deepen the wound strings slots if they are too shallow and can potentially pop off.

    I just compared the bridge heights. Tunomatic bridge has 15mm from bottom to saddle top, Mustang has 9mm. Tells you everything you need to know. These design features are there for a reason. Leo arrived at these figures after a long and careful research. Some people think they know better. Oh well. I find that yes, you can fiddle with the original design and sort of make it all work by cutting, shimming, trimming etc. But it will inevitably effect tuning stability, playability and possibly even your tone.

    an interesting book to read about guitar design I would recommend "electric guitar and bass design". The guy really knows his stuff
    Last edited by PaulFromSydney; 03-10-2023 at 07:49 AM.

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