Home Etching a Neckplate

[fender3x]

There may be others who know more about this than I do, but I *think* the way this works is essentially the opposite of how a plate is chromed in the first place. The Q-tip is soaked in acid, and connected to the + terminal. Effectively this sucks the chrome off of the plate.

My understanding is that when the plate was chromed in the first place it was placed in some sort of chrome acid bath with the charges reversed so that the chrome would stick to the plate.

So, the form of etching I did should only work with something that has been chromed or anodized. If the black on your neck plate is paint, I don't think this will work. If the black was a form of anodizing, it might work...but I am not at all sure of that. If the paint is not conductive I am pretty sure this form of etching won't work.

Stainless is not chromed, so I don't think it would work with that. If it does I think the metal should stay the same color...but maybe more matte?

So...bottom line, I am not sure this will work on plates that have not been chromed. If anyone tries it please post, but I would not count on it working. I did my plate with the thinking that it was an experiment, and I try to keep in mind that it is the nature of experiments that sometimes they fail. ;-)

[fender3x]

There are other ways to etch surfaces as well, air eraser air brush and compressor using a fine grade aluminium powder. I have been researching this method for other projects. Essentially, can be used for etching just about all surfaces without the need for electrical chemical current. Low 45 PSI compressor and a Paasche Air Eraser and fine grade aluminium powder.

This sounds interesting. If you try it please post ;-)


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[Jetblack]

Hi fender3x, I discovered this by looking up etching methods and it stood out as a very viable alternative, will definately post the process if I decide to go down that track, I am very interested in this. The problem will be the compressor approach, I have a large heavy duty compressor but getting the PSI that low may not be possible and purchasing a low output hobby type compressor for a couple of small jobs like this may not be very cost effective. The site that showed this method also showed a simple home made air brush. See if post up the link.

[Jetblack]

https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=08458...ZS1Vc2Uv&ntb=1

[Dikkybee007]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99PPLqZ3iUI&t=195s

Etching is the process of removing material by various processes but chemical is probably the most used as it is cheap but now you can also use a laser but the cost is much higher.

Etching a chromed item removes the lighter coloured chrome to reveal the material underneath which is a different colour normally a copper coat. But if the material underneath was a material which colour was closer to the chrome then the difference would not be as contrast as the difference between the chrome and the copper. Remember the acid does not change the colour of the copper underneath the chrome unlike when applied to bare steel.

In the above Youtube video the acid actually changes the colour of the steel base to black which I have done with Nitric acid and there is no need for an electric charge using the Nitric acid but it is very difficult to do and took me a long time to perfect and is more expensive than using salt water. In the video he uses Perma Blue on one side and it highlighted the etch better than just the salt solution. Perma Blue is used to blue gun parts and is just a form of controlled rust. There was probably no need to use the salt etch as just applying the Perma Blue would have been enough but using the salt water acid etch would have allowed the Blue to act quicker.

Using the air brush with the aluminium powder is just sand blasting which can be done with various powders. I have used glass beads and it is a very fine form of sand blasting on metal as well as glass. Sand blasting does give you a rough surface but it only really shows up if the surface you are applying it to is highly polished, like chrome, but it does tend to wear away unlike acid etching. There is no colour change but I have rubbed a colour into where I have used the sand blasting but then you have to clean around the edges but it isn't really as good as acid etching. I have used ground nut husks in a sand blaster but it polished more than rough the surface. There is also the mess and possible injury from blasting your hand or getting hit in the eye. To get the pressure down just install a regulator on the compressor that is adjustable. My compressor has a 100 PSI in the tank but with a regulator I have the pressure coming out of the hand piece as low as 10 PSI as that was the lowest I needed but I am sure I could go lower.

You can etch stainless using the acid/salt water but you have to use a 400 grade and not a 300 grade stainless. This is because 400 can rust so using an acid etch will turn the material black but the material will rust and once etched it has to be covered in oil or varnish to stop any further rusting. You can etch most materials, even Aluminium and copper which is quicker than steel, but I am not sure if you use a different acid, never done it so can't comment.

If you have the money just get a Laser Engraver, easier to do, no mess, no chemicals to worry about breathing in but there is a learning process and the set up quite a bit more expensive than using a battery and salt water. I had access to one and it was very clean and easy to use once you learned how. Depending on the material the fumes are reasonably safe but some materials do give of nasty gases so the use of extraction or using proper mask in very important. I am not sure but I was told you can use a solution that can produce a different colour than just black but I never followed up so not really sure and not sure on cost.

[Jetblack]

I'm sure your right with a few of the aspects of using different methods, as with any method, there is always an element of risk involved and using correct PPE's and as pointed out in the link I put up, proper enclosed work area etc there should be minimal risk of taking skin of hands, eye damage avoided by wearing correct eye protection and of course masking up, as with any potential risk. I have not tried this method as yet, but considering it is rather cost effective, my suggestion would be to try it out on sample pieces. Not sure about the wear and tear side of the method, but like anything etched, if you rub it enough would likely change its appearance. You seem to be iron clad on using acids and electrical methods, where there is certainly areas of risk involved, lazer is exspensive and if setup well and good, not a path I would choose to have to spend large amounts of money for unless I was going into production for the use of.