IB-4 Build Started!

[NigeS]

Hi Everyone!
I've just taken delivery of my new IB-4 kit. All seems in order, although I suspect this build will be a little more complex than my last (a TL kit from another manufacturer (sorry!) that had more prep factory done (holes predrilled for scratch plate and bridge etc).

On my last build, I lined all the cavities with copper tape (as recommended by Pitbull) and also ensured that the bridge and cavities were linked back to the main earth point. But - although there is a hole for a bridge link wire on the IB-4, the bridge itself appears to be powder coated and is therefore covered by an insulating layer. I can see that removing a section of the coating would enable the wire to contact the base of the bridge - but the strings would still be isolated. Would removing the coating from the holes where the strings pass through the bridge give an adequate earth contact?

Anyone else out there building (or have built) an IB-4? I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get into the build, but for now I'm going to concentrate on fettling the body and a sanding marathon as I intend to finish this with oil - not paint - to bring out the natural wood finish.
Cheers
NigeS

[Alexej]

Hi NigeS. Had built a custom IB4 some moths ago, maybe my diary can give you some input. In my case I just sanded a bit the bottom of the bridge, where the wire would touch it. Instead of copper I put some isolation paint on all the cavities. Have no noise problems at all. If I understand it right, you do not have to remove any coating besides the wire touching bridge space. Wish you good luck und much fun with the build!

[Trevor Davies]

Hi and welcome NigeS.

I agree with Alexej - only the underneath of the bridge should require some paint scratched/sanded off to contact the ground wire. I think the strings naturally wear away some of the coating on the saddles to make a good connection.

Good luck with the sanding. It will also pay to start a build diary.

[Simon Barden]

For shielding paint, I use Rustins G Shield. https://northwestguitars.co.uk/produ...ng-paint-125ml. One tin goes a long way. It's often more convenient for shielding cavities, especially ones for body-mounted pickups. Much better aesthetically having black cavities than copper-lined ones where you can see the copper IMO.


I'll often use the paint in conjunction with copper tape, the tape going on the flatter areas like backs of scratchplates.

[fender3x]

Man if we could only get that in the US for your price. Not sure why, but the cheapest I could find on eBay was actually from the UK. Here, the cheapest no-brand shielding paint I can find is $14 for an ounce or two (~29-58ml). My cheap solution is aluminum HVAC tape... A $5 role is a lifetime supply for guitar shielding. Not as aesthetic, though...

[NigeS]

You can't solder earthing wires to Aluminium tape like you can to copper. Unearthed shields don't do too much good...

However - I think I'm close to the final finish on my IB-4 body. 14 coats of TruOil, sanded to decreasing grits throughout. Final coat was a wet sand with 2000 grit, which has left a nice 'just off gloss' finish. (The burn on the rear (done when I had to modify the pocket for the jack so that the nut could be fitted with a router) will be covered by the rear plate. Just need approval from the customer (my daughter) early next month...

Neck has turned out really well. Also used TruOil - but far fewer coats on the harder maple. The feel of the back is amazing! I've sanded the fret edges andjust need some fretboard cleaner and oil (from Crimson Guitars - a great source for UK builders (sorry Pitbull...))

The neck is a really good fit in the body. I've set the bridge position after a trial fit and drilled two of the pilot holes - in case I need to move it on final assembly. Any thoughts on tuner winder orientation? Looking at the original Ib guitars, they seem to be slanted back towards the body - but I think they look better at 90 deg to the neck centre line?....

Cheers
N

Just got to work out why I can't upload photos...

[Simon Barden]

Pics need to be less than 1500 pixels on the longest side, so need to be resized. See here if you're on a PC.

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post225744

If on a phone, there are resizing apps.

You don't need to solder to the shielding, there are alternatives. You can simply tape down a length of wire with the end exposed with another bit of shielding tape. Or you can use a crimp eyelet on a wire and use a small screw to hold it to the tape, or even solder a wire to a small washer and screw that down to the shielding tape. I've done all three.

Tuner orientation? Up to you really. The tuners work the same, and certainly for the upper tuners on a 2+2 setup, they are easier to turn if you've got the guitar on a strap if they face you slightly. Not quite so sure about the lower ones. Looking at current SR basses, the top tuners are angled back slightly, the bottom ones are straight.

I don't know anyone who uses a bass tuner winder (most bass players don't change their strings anything like as often as guitar players), but they exist and angled tuners could stop them working if the handle catches on the headstock or the next tuner key because of the angle.

[NigeS]

Thanks for tips, Simon...
N

[NigeS]

Let's try the pics again after Simon's advice....

[NigeS]

Here's a couple of pics of my last build -- a TL kit for my daughter. She's a bit of a Goth - hence the black body / black neck colour scheme. I spent 3 weeks tweaking the neck bend, string heights and intonation, but it still wasn't as good as I wanted. Ran out of time as it was to be a Christmas present delivery - but she was delighted!



Cheers!
N