Paint headstock or stain neck first?

[Karl]

For my next project I'm thinking of painting the face of the headstock and staining the rest of the neck (probably an oil-based stain with polyurethane over it). I'm wondering which to do first, considering that some paint or stain might make it past the masking tape. Which is worse, removing paint from stain or removing stain from paint?

[Jetblack]

Im experimenting with a couple of stains and have recently discovered ebonizing using steel wool and vinegar. Referring to your question Im pretty sure you would be better to stain first allow to dry then tape off to paint over the areas you want to paint, the paint will set over the stain rather than staining over the paint, so to speak.

[Trevor Davies]

For my next project I'm thinking of painting the face of the headstock and staining the rest of the neck (probably an oil-based stain with polyurethane over it). I'm wondering which to do first, considering that some paint or stain might make it past the masking tape. Which is worse, removing paint from stain or removing stain from paint?

I think I would also stain first, then paint. Are you using the same poly over both?

[Simon Barden]

Stain and then paint. I’d probably put the clear on the neck first, with a couple of coats on the headstock face, before painting the headstock. It’s hard to stop paint creeping under masking tape on those tight concave curves, but at least with some finish down, it’s easier to scrape/sand paint off the clear than it is than directly off stained wood. You might need a coat or two of clear to cover the scratches, but if you are adding decals to the headstock, you’ll be spraying clear over the paint anyway.

[Karl]

Thanks for these answers.

Are you using the same poly over both?

No. The poly I have has a slight amber tint and I want the paint on the headstock and body to match. I'll use something 100% clear over the paint.

[Simon Barden]

Just make sure they are from the same manufacturer and the same range. Polys come in different formulas, as well as basic water- and solvent-based differences and they aren’t all compatible.

So always test first on some scrap timber. You don’t want areas which don’t harden or start bubbling up or go cloudy.