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Thread: PB-30M Green Short Scale P-BASS! :)

  1. #21
    My old man, Bill Despotovski , shaped this Fender style headstock using an ANGLE GRINDER! 😃😃😃
    What a legend! 😁😁😁 thanks dad!Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #22
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Wow, great angle grinding!
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic).

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  3. #23
    To be fair it was little bit of electric jigsaw and mostly angle grinding! My dad is an artist with an angle grinder tho 😆😃

  4. #24
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    That is an approach I have not seen before, but the outcome is impressive. I didn't even know that was possible. The last time I did one with a router, I knocked off a chunk that I did not intend. I may have to start practicing with my angle grinder!

  5. #25
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fender3x View Post
    That is an approach I have not seen before, but the outcome is impressive. I didn't even know that was possible. The last time I did one with a router, I knocked off a chunk that I did not intend. I may have to start practicing with my angle grinder!
    Whilst I have used my angle grinder on bodies for comfort contours and some shaping, it wouldn't be my first choice for working on a neck or headstock. Obviously louie's dad has the ability to pull it off, but the risk of things going wrong are pretty high IMO.

    For one, angle grinders run at very high RPM and I've never seen one with a variable speed trigger. I use a "flap-disc" for timber not a standard grinding/cutting disc, but even with a flap-disc, the RPM makes it easy to burn the timber (especially on maple). Those burns can be hard to remove without going deeper and that may effect the shape/form you're trying to achieve.

    For power tools to be used on a headstock, I would stick to things like a jig-saw or scroll saw for roughing out, followed by a vertical drum sander (or DIY drum sander jig) or good old fashioned files and sandpaper. If no power tools are an option, there's the tried and true hand-held coping saw! Granted that takes more effort and patience, but if you're only building one guitar at a time, it's not a huge amount of time in the big picture.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  6. #26
    Yes, when he pulled out the grinder i was a bit worried! 😆
    And yes he did use flap disc i think
    And yes it did burn the wood , but im not worried as im painting this headstock to match the body 😄
    Happy days , i was very impressed watching him work the grinder like that hahaha so good!
    Im happy with the result and very keen to get to work on the finish!

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by LouiDee View Post
    My old man, Bill Despotovski , shaped this Fender style headstock using an ANGLE GRINDER! 😃😃😃
    What a legend! 😁😁😁 thanks dad!Click image for larger version. 

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    nice work!

  8. #28
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Sanded and ready for PAINT! 😃😃😃

  9. #29
    Sanded and ready for PAINT! 😃😃😃Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    For one, angle grinders run at very high RPM and I've never seen one with a variable speed trigger. I use a "flap-disc" for timber not a standard grinding/cutting disc, but even with a flap-disc, the RPM makes it easy to burn the timber (especially on maple). Those burns can be hard to remove without going deeper and that may effect the shape/form you're trying to achieve.
    If you are gentle and move quickly flap disks are awesome on maple. That's what I used to shape the bevels of the axe on the GS axe, For a headstock I'd probably use a jig saw and a router with a template.

    I guess you use what you have available and what you are familiar with. Using an angle grinder is a pretty novel approach, but the results are undeniable. Noice!

  11. Liked by: LouiDee

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