TD's Scratchy Thinline

[Trevor Davies]

Thanks FaustoB and McCreed.

As for the setup, I will give the Jerry D method a go.

Interesting that it was not a problem for my TLA-1 build as the kit did not have a bridge and the replacement was a 6 saddle style! By what Simon is saying they have their own problems if the saddles need to be low to the deck. Can I assume that is why string throughs are popular (or essential) with some bridges!

[Simon Barden]

You’ve got a range of 6x top loading saddle bridges. The 6x barrel saddles are OK because they are offset. And some cast saddle styles have an offset screw and the saddle cast so it doesn’t foul the string. But some have 6x Strat-style cast saddles with a central screw that really only work with a string-through-body bridge. Because of the screw, the saddle can’t be too cut-away around it or it won’t be strong enough (especially with the cheap pot-metal alloy often used).

[Trevor Davies]

Thanks Simon,

Yes, the options are almost endless.

[Trevor Davies]

Continuing on from last year's pine scratchy tele style guitars, I have decided to try some tele bass guitars (and hopefully a Dusty Hill inspired tele).

Been collecting some resources over the last few months. Got some PB bass necks, a couple of hardware packs, and an Entwistle jazz pickup. Got a few different bass pickups and some pickguard blanks. Also have a '51 P-bass control panel (vol and tone control only) on order.

Just finished making some mdf templates. The body template is about 6 mm wider than my 6 string tele template to take the bigger neck. I had intended to only have a neck pickup (but this may change). The headstock pattern templates push onto the headstock so that when routing the shape there is no need for clamping (or screwing or tape).

Now just need to get some wood.

[Trevor Davies]

I have purchased some 40mm deep lengths of pine (and a jarrah strip), laminated them together (using dowels), sanded the joins, rough cut to the tele Bass shape using a jigsaw (which struggled a bit!), and sanded to 180 g.

The bigger knot holes have been filled with CA glue to hopefully give the appearance of clear resin.

Still a lot more sanding needed.

[FrankenWashie]

OOOO I like the look of that knotty pine one! if you get bored with it Ig0r has some ideas....

[Trevor Davies]

OOOO I like the look of that knotty pine one! if you get bored with it Ig0r has some ideas....

Thanks FW.

[Trevor Davies]

Some progress. Routed the body and the cavities for the controls, pup and neck. Quarter rounded the body. Drilled the channels for the bridge ground and pup wires, and drilled the recess for the jack socket.

Also gave the body a coating of pine coloured timbermate slurry. Let it dry and then sanded with 240 g paper.

[Trevor Davies]

I have now shaped the headstock using an mdf template and a router table, then sanded with 240 g. Added my serial number, which is punched on, then filled with ebony timbermate, and then sanded back.

Also started adding coats of tru-oil to the body and the maple fret board. I want the fretboard to be sealed and protected before I start the fret levelling process so as to avoid getting dirt and marks on it.

[Trevor Davies]

I ended up giving the fretboard 6 coats of true-oil. After that, I have also levelled, dressed and polished the frets.
The neck, head stock and body have now been given about 15 coats of tru-oil.