Gms-7z

[altizerc2196]

Starting the build diary on my first guitar build; and starting off strong! GMS-7z multiscale 7-string kit.

Believe the veneer is a simulated zebrawood with Zebra Maple as noted on the product page. 2 pc. Mahoghany body and Mahoghany neck.

Looking to make a super light purple-gray stain (wisteria is the inspiration) for the veneer. No plans for color on the back and neck (yet). Stain to be used is Angelus lilac suede dye, diluted with neutral. Would have liked to do black first and sanded back to add depth to the veneer grain, but looks to be too thin to back-sand enough.

Finishing with tru-oil sealer and filler so the stain doesn't lift and mix color, topped with many layers of tru-oil for high gloss finish. Mahoghany will be first stained (whatever the color might be), then filled with Aquacoat clear wood grain filler and finished with tru-oil in the same way.

Looking forward to getting started! Hoping to make a first post over the test build and inspection tonight.

Carson

[Trevor Davies]

Hi and welcome Carson.
Great that you have a clear vision of what you want. I'm a big fan of tru-oil! Good luck with the build.

[altizerc2196]

Body Inspection:
Looked over the body and neck for any issues, there is a machining Mark on the face of the body, to the left of where the strap button would be. Also, it looks as if the vaneer is already sanded through at the top of the cutaway, along the binding. Both pictured here: https://imgur.com/a/O0trJie

Frustrating that the vaneer is already messed up before I had the chance to do so myself. Has anyone else experienced this? Am I able to send the body back, Or is there a way to hide? Only thing I could think of is to have a black burst and hope the difference in Zebra Maple and Mahogany's colors don't show.

Hardware:
Hipshot bridge + (4) bridge screws
(7) press-fit string inserts (for back)
(2) 16° angled humbuckers
(4) humbucker screws
(4) humbucker springs
Vol & Tone pots, 3 pos. switch, input all prewired
(2) nuts + (2) washers + (2) knobs for pots
Nut/washer for 3 position switch
Input faceplate + (2) mount screws + nut/washer
(2) strap buttons + (2) rubber washers + (2) screws
Electronics cavity cover + (3) screws
Truss rod cover + (3) screws
(7) tuners + (7) screws

All also came with 2 pieces of foam with a sticky backing and some holes stamped through it. Does anyone know what they're for? Seem like they'd be behind the humbuckers. Plus, I got two additional truss rodd and electronic cavity covers. These are both different shapes than the two that fit correctly on the guitar. Anyone know what's up with that? Foam and extra plates here: https://imgur.com/a/eqCPIOQ

Test fitting:
Most all fit together well, except the most important part - the neck. When putting the heel in the pocket, there is ~1/8" of space on the low B string side that gradually decreases until gone on the high e string side. Also seen with humbucker inserted; does not sit flush with the end of the fretboard. When trying to fit in the neck with the humbucker, the humbucker is wedged in. When test fitting the bottom and top strings, I believe this is also the cause of a marginal difference in space from the neck binding to the string; smaller at the nut and wider the 24th fret. B string is particularly bad, but e string is also noticable. Images of pocket gap; gap between humbucker and fretboard; and margins of strings at nut and 24th fret: https://imgur.com/a/Xe2IjGE

How can I fix this? Seems like the neck pocket is pointing the neck just 1° or so to the right from center. Sand the left side of the pocket until the neck seats fully? Worried about sanding too far and having to shim the neck back into place.

Any help is very much appreciated. Wouldn't love to send anything back, as shipping is expensive and long from Australia to the center of the US...

[altizerc2196]

Also worth noting on the neck pocket issue, the test fit showed that the scale length on the e string side was correct, at 25.5". The B string side was 1/8" longer than supposed to be at 27.125".

[DaveM]

Can't wait to see how you go with it mate
I'm on some learning curves on my multi scale build too(first effort).

There's definitely some engineering to do to get the lengths right and properly adjustable at the saddles. I've been comparing several guitars to estimate the positioning for the different string gauges.
Do you have any other multi scale guitars to get an idea of the kind of lengths to expect from 12th fret to saddles? It would really help my setup too.

[altizerc2196]

Can't wait to see how you go with it mate
I'm on some learning curves on my multi scale build too(first effort).

There's definitely some engineering to do to get the lengths right and properly adjustable at the saddles. I've been comparing several guitars to estimate the positioning for the different string gauges.
Do you have any other multi scale guitars to get an idea of the kind of lengths to expect from 12th fret to saddles? It would really help my setup too.

Thanks Dave, Saw your build diary post - would have loved to get a flamed maple top if they offered it on the 7-string! Unfortunately, I'm in the boat with you as this is my first build and first multiscale guitar. A kit seemed like a cheaper entry point to start playing on a multiscale 7 and love the idea of making it my own.

Looking at the scale length on the product listings for both of our guitars, it shows that our lowest strings (my B, your E) should be 27" (685.8mm) and our high e string should be 25.5" (647.7mm). Nut to top of the 12th fret should be exactly half of those, but once the saddles are adjusted for intonation, the 12th fret to saddle measurement may be a little different. To be able to adjust in either direction in the future, I'd set your saddles at the middle of their adjustment, then go for exactly half of the scale length at 13.5" (342.9mm) on our lowest string and 12.75" (323.85mm) on the high e.

Hope this helps with your build, and looking forward to learning in parallel with you!

Carson

[altizerc2196]

I've sanded the neck pickup pocket in the bottom right, and the cutouts for the mounting plate screws (top on the left cutout, bottom of the right cutout). Now the pickup is able to twist in the pocket clockwise, allowing the neck tenon to fully seat against the body cutout. The neck pickup angle also now aligns to the angle of the fretboard end.

Test fit 2 seems to be better, with both high and low strings gaining space on the sides of the fretboard equally. Next step will be to level the frets

https://imgur.com/a/f9DoZ72

[DaveM]

Looking good Carson

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=12152
Make sure you check out this post where Simon gives a really detailed explanation of scale length relative to the bridge half of the strings. I never bothered to calculate how a guitar was actually set up before starting this build but now I can see there's definitely some estimating and some judgement required in consideration of string tension before setting your neck in position.
Hence why I have longer measurements from 12th to the saddles.

You can see where I've actually pulled the neck out from the pocket to achieve my measurements, and it's created a big gap which I'm trying to establish how to fill!

[altizerc2196]

Thanks for looking out, Dave! So from the post you've linked, sounds like we set the intonation screws with just a few threads visible within the saddle. Measure for the nominal scale length from there because during intonation they will only be adjusted backwards to account for added tension while pressing down on the frets.

Interested in what you will use for the gap-fill because I'll likely have to do the same!

[altizerc2196]

For the fretwork, used a straight edge of cardboard with notches cut out to determine how to adjust the truss rod. A few quarter turns to the left straightened the factory convex bow. Taped the fretboard, marked the frets with a sharpie and used 400 grit taped to an aluminum yard stick to level sand the frets. In the process, managed to tap the nut off... So at the end of the fretwork, used a little wood glue and clamped it back on.

Following the level sanding (once the sharpie was gone) I re-marked the frets and used a medium fret file until there was a thin, even center line on every fret. Then went up and down the fretboard with 600 grit until those lines were removed (to smooth the curve at the top of each fret). I went over each fret individually then with 1000 grit until they had a uniform matte finish.

Finally I polished each with 0000 steel wool. I could have polished with higher grit, but was already happy with the results. The steel wool left a close-to-mirror finish on the frets.

Finished product: https://imgur.com/a/pD0rMFH

Up next, stain!