A mate of mine gave me an electric guitar, for nothing!

[Simon Barden]

Yes, the bridge needs to be moved back before the saddles could be moved forwards to cover the racetrack holes and your understanding of bridge positioning is correct.

You could got a faulty string where its been over-stretched in one small area so you've got a much thinner section, which would throw the normal intonation out.

I'd have thought it would be a poly finish. Very unlikely to be nitro lacquer unless it was a US-made Peavey custom shop guitar.

I recently mended an Ibanez acoustic that had a side-mounted jack socket that had been ripped out when the guitar was dropped with a jack plugged in. I mended the hole with a mixture of wood and resin, then sprayed the repair area with black auto paint and clear auto acrylic lacquer. After sanding and polishing, it was just about invisible. I fitted an end-pin jack instead - much stronger!

[DrNomis_44]

Yes, the bridge needs to be moved back before the saddles could be moved forwards to cover the racetrack holes and your understanding of bridge positioning is correct.

You could got a faulty string where its been over-stretched in one small area so you've got a much thinner section, which would throw the normal intonation out.

I'd have thought it would be a poly finish. Very unlikely to be nitro lacquer unless it was a US-made Peavey custom shop guitar.

I recently mended an Ibanez acoustic that had a side-mounted jack socket that had been ripped out when the guitar was dropped with a jack plugged in. I mended the hole with a mixture of wood and resin, then sprayed the repair area with black auto paint and clear auto acrylic lacquer. After sanding and polishing, it was just about invisible. I fitted an end-pin jack instead - much stronger!

Cheers Simon, good to know that, it proves that I wasn't imagining things, I've currently got a set of fairly new-ish Ernie Ball Super Slinkys in 42-09 gauge on the Peavey, which I strongly suspect is one not made in the US, so it could very well be a poly-finish, I'll have to do some googling tomorrow to find-out for sure.

Of course I know that occasionally I may get the odd faulty string in amongst sets of known-brand strings, that reminds me of some brand-new DAddario strings I once bought that had black corrosion on them when I opened the plastic bags they were sealed in, these were brand-new never opened before strings.

[DrNomis_44]

Yes, the bridge needs to be moved back before the saddles could be moved forwards to cover the racetrack holes and your understanding of bridge positioning is correct.

You could got a faulty string where its been over-stretched in one small area so you've got a much thinner section, which would throw the normal intonation out.

I'd have thought it would be a poly finish. Very unlikely to be nitro lacquer unless it was a US-made Peavey custom shop guitar.

I recently mended an Ibanez acoustic that had a side-mounted jack socket that had been ripped out when the guitar was dropped with a jack plugged in. I mended the hole with a mixture of wood and resin, then sprayed the repair area with black auto paint and clear auto acrylic lacquer. After sanding and polishing, it was just about invisible. I fitted an end-pin jack instead - much stronger!

Hey Simon,

I'm currently working on my Peavey guitar as I type this, things are really looking-up with regards to re-positioning the bridge, as luck would have it, I'm not going to have to drill a whole new set of string holes in the body of the guitar, all I will need to do is plug the existing bridge mounting-screw holes (5 in total), and drill new ones on the front of the guitar body, and that should fix the intonation issue for good, leaving me with plenty adjustment for lengthening each string, the six existing string holes all line-up with the holes in the bridge for the piezo pickups, so all I need to do is re-locate the bridge about 5-6mm back from it's original position.


Only two of the original bridge mounting-screw holes will be visible after the bridge is re-located, but if I use a black sharpie to camouflage the plugs, it should look almost invisible.


Here's a pic of the bridgeplate in it's original position, the pen marks on the blue painter's tape indicate where the scale-length ends:





Here's a pic of the bridgeplate moved to it's new position, the end of the long holes in the bridgeplate end-up right over where the string holes were:




Note that the row of small holes in the bridgeplate are where the strings would normally pass-through, hopefully that should fix all the intonation issues with all the strings for good, allowing me plenty of adjustment-range for lengthening the strings to compensate for any of the strings playing sharp at the 12th fret, the low E-string and G-string being the worst offenders.