DSC-1 wiring

[glenwilliam]

Should I be using the 2H2v2t3 wiring diagram for this guitar? Seems to fit the profile.
It's a little confusing having some of the soldering done already and I think this late in the day I should be just about knocking off for a beer rather than looking at wiring diagrams.
Actually I now see that there are videos for the LP-1. I'm going to assume it's the same

[McCreed]

Hey Glen.
As far PBG diagrams this one suits:
https://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-co...m4Pot%20v5.pdf

That's a very common configuration so there's lots of other sources online. If you're after a simple straight forward scheme, the PBG one will do it. There are "vintage" and "modern" variations available as well as a set up that utilises a "bass cut" for the neck pickup (my new favourite btw). It just depends on what you want or need.

[glenwilliam]

Thanks McCreed. Interesting there are variations! I will have to do some reading I think

[Simon Barden]

Note that the PBG wiring diagram is missing the soldering on the folded-back volume pot tabs.

The diagram shows 'modern' wiring with the connection off to the tone control from the input tab/pickup connection on the volume pot. 'Vintage' wiring has the tone pot connection taken from the central output tab on the volume pot to the 3-way switch.

With the 'vintage' connection, the volume pot turns down cleanly and you don't lose treble, so there's no need for a treble-bleed capacitor on the volume pot, but there is more interaction between the volume and tone control and turning down the tone with the volume already turned down a bit can increase the volume a bit as well. It's certainly interesting and for me, better. It takes a little bit of getting used to but you end up with a wider selection of tones and a sound that cleans up better when you turn the volume down into an overdriving amp.

[glenwilliam]

Something that does confuse me about that wiring diagram is that i've got a wire coming from the volume pot that is already soldered that's meant to go to the 3-way switch but it has both a hot wire and a ground wire, though in the diagram it does not. Any assistance on what to do with the ground wire (if anything) would be great.
All of my wires have both hot and ground actually apart from the one grounding wire that goes to the bridge.

[glenwilliam]

That is interesting, thanks Simon!

[McCreed]

Something that does confuse me about that wiring diagram is that i've got a wire coming from the volume pot that is already soldered that's meant to go to the 3-way switch but it has both a hot wire and a ground wire,

Photo?
I'm stiil working on my first cup of coffee, having trouble picturing what you mean .

[glenwilliam]

So this is the bridge volume pot with the wire that’s meant to go to the 3-way switch (I think) but it has both the live and ground.. where as in the diagram it’s just a single wire point to point.


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[McCreed]

The only difference is that the kit harness has been assembled with shielded wire that contains the conductor (white insulated wire) and a braided "sleeve" which is the ground/shield, and the diagram is shown using single core unshielded wire.

I presume the wire head downward (to the bottom of the photo) is connected (or will be) to the bridge tone pot, yes?

If all the centre conductor wires of your harness are soldered to the appropriate pot lugs/switch lugs like the "single" wires shown in the diagram, you'll be right. Then all the braided ground/shield wires can be connected to a common ground point. Just be sure to check continuity between all your ground connections with your multimeter.

[glenwilliam]

Correct. The other thicker black wire is connected to the tone pot and the thinner one is the ground to the bridge.

Cheers muchly for the info. I’ll get to soldering this afternoon I think and see how I go!


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