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Thread: Pathfinder 01 - Explorer with upgrades (1st build)

  1. #71

  2. #72
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Titebond say to keep it clamped 24 hours for stressed joints.
    Yes, I did say "overnight" which is a bit vague. In reality it would have been at least 18 hours (possibly more) from the time I clamped it, to the time I got back to doing any other work on the guitar.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  3. #73
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Just double checked the Titebond site FAQs and they say" Stressed joints need to be clamped for 24 hours. We recommend not stressing the new joint for at least 24 hours".

    So 24 hours clamping and then a further 24 hours left alone.

  4. #74
    Simon Barden and McCreed: thank you both!
    I used Titebond, but on the container it only says 30min clamped… so I will keep it on for at least a day then.


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  5. #75
    Quote Originally Posted by Rabbit View Post
    You know those strings won't work with pickups?.......
    Well, the tone is not that great but I have no complaints about them being straight.


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  6. #76
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    30 minutes is the minimum recommended clamping time for unstressed joints. They really should add more information on the container rather than having to look it up on their website.

  7. #77


    Clamp off after 48+ hours, cavities shielded.

    Looking at wiring diagrams now…


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  8. #78
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    The shielding all needs to be grounded, and you need shielding on the underside of the control covers. It's normal to run the shielding up over the edge of the control cavity onto the rebate for the cover. The control cavity shielding is grounded by contact with the pots, and the shielding on the underside of the cover is grounded by contact with the shielding in the rebate.

    The two pickup cavities will need a grounding wire run between them and back to ground in the control cavity.

    Use a multimeter to check continuity to all the areas of shielding, and stick some more foil across and gaps or areas with poor continuity.

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  10. #79
    And a dry test fit just for the looks.


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  11. #80
    Simon Barden, thank you for the tips! I’ll take the multimeter to check for sure. Cable between cavities: wow, OK, I did not think of that…
    Whose wiring videos would you recommend on Youtube?
    This is the first time I do this. I did soldering before on some electronics, but not guitars, so I have basic questions…
    I have two Seymour Duncan humbuckers, 2 push-pull pots (because I would like to do coil splitting) and a 3way toggle, and I got this from the SD site:
    So.. now what?

    Eg: are there certain parts to be better done while out of the cavity or should I just put everything in there and work in that little space?


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