I noticed with this kit, the control cavity did not have a ridge routed for the cover to recess into. I thought that having it recessed would be much better so, I decided to create a recess for the cover to sit in.
Not having a router, I would be doing this by hand with a chisel. Quite a daunting task considering my lack of experience with a chisel.
Marked the outline for where the plate is going to be and scored the outline with a box cutter knife. (would love to have a scalpel but can't seem to find any) This is to minimise tearout from the chisel. Worked methodically to chisel out the recess and the used a mouse sander to smooth the recess.
There was some chips and tearout on the outside of the recess that I need to figure out how to fix and make look better. To do however want to replace with plastic cover with a wood cover so could enlarge the recess a bit and make the wood cover slightly bigger and be extra carefull with the chisel.
Started sanding all the guitar surfaces bar the fretboard. Tried sanding with the mouse sander and with a random orbital sander but with the curves and contours, sanding by hand, with and without a sanding block, seemed to be work better.
This kit does not have a vanier on it so don't need to be to carefull when sanding.
Started off with Grit 120 sand paper, moved up to 240 and then sanded with 300 grit. Running my hand over the surface to feel for rough spots and then touch up sanding where needed.
I then rubbed the surface down the a slightly damp cloth to bring out the grain and let the wood dry in the sun.
When dry, re-sanded with the 300 grit sand paper ensure the surfaces were all smooth.
Mounted the neck loosely and meaured for the bridge placement.
This is a 34" scale guitar, this converts to 863,6 mm.
Measured the width of the neck at the 1st fret with my cheap calipers, divided that to get the middle and marked the middle of the neck on a piece of masking tape placed on the fret board.
Did the same at the 12th fret. This gave me 2 points of reference to get the centre line for the body.
Placed masking tape on the body to draw the centre line. This centre line also gave me the placement for the strap button.
Placed my 1 metre straight edge on the fret board, pushed up against the nut and lined up with centre marks at the 1st and 12th fret. Measured out the 863,6 mm and maked the scale length on masking tape where the bridge would go.
I am still a little unsure on where to actually place the bridge, I have not yet drilled any holes for the bridge mounting.
The sadles are still as they were when they arrived in the kit with the sadle for the high string (G) is the furtherest forward (closest to the neck) and the other sadles gradually stepping back to the low string (B).
There is still a bit if of screw adjustment for each sadle forward and back.
I assumed that I would leave the sadles where they are and place the bridge with the scale length line in the middle of the where the sadles are currently on the bridge.
When setting the intenation, I would still have adjustment forward and back on the sadle to compensate and get the intenation right.
Don't know if this is best practise and what the best placement technique is.....
Reply With Quote