First Build - TL-1A

[McCreed]

Yes, that is looking nice.

Further to what jonwhitear said, for removing runs there are a couple methods I'll suggest apart from simply block sanding.

If the runs sit quite proud of the finish, first try scraping them as level as you can with a single edge razor blade, holding the blade perpindicular to the surface and scraping thein the direction and length of the run.

The second trick is called "strip sanding". This is not about "stripping" a finish, it is using narrow "strips" of sandpaper applied to a singular area without disturbing the surrounding areas.

HERE is a link that explains it, and I'm sure there are YT videos showing it. You can cut the strips as wide or as narrow as needed for the size of the repair.

These methods can be used along with the usual block sanding, but are a good first step. Trying sand out a run or other small imperfection with a full sanding block can result in removing finish from where it didn't need to be or create divots.

[MrEddy]

It's varnish. And I have done a few rounds of sanding between coats. I'm just trying to be extremely careful not to sand through. Already got close once.

[McCreed]

FWIW "varnish" is a broad term that covers a lot of different clear finish products that can be oil based like polyurethane, or alcohol based such as shellac and lots in between.

My guess would be you have polyurethane, which is sometimes marketed/labelled etc as polyurethane varnish.

[MrEddy]

Yep, it's the Feast Watson Clear Varnish product, which is some sort of polyurethane, as you mentioned. I'll give your suggestions a go. One of the problem spots is where the pickguard will go so that's a good place to start without stressing too much.

[McCreed]

Yep, it's the Feast Watson Clear Varnish product, which is some sort of polyurethane, as you mentioned. I'll give your suggestions a go. One of the problem spots is where the pickguard will go so that's a good place to start without stressing too much.

That's cool. Depending on the severity of the "drip" part of the run, just the strip sanding may be all that's needed (before block/level sanding). The razor + strip sand would be good for heavy runs.

[Rossco381]

Bit old I realise and may have fixed it, but a bit of masking tape either side of the "run" can act as a bit of a guide for height for the razor and protects the finish as well. Then minimises sanding damage around it.

[McCreed]

Bit old I realise and may have fixed it, but a bit of masking tape either side of the "run" can act as a bit of a guide for height for the razor and protects the finish as well. Then minimises sanding damage around it.

Good tip Roscco. Never too late!

I should have included this in my previous post. I apply the tape directly to the blade.

This accomplishes two things:
1) It acts as a depth stop (same principle as yours)*.
2) The tape can be applied to vary the width of the exposed blade to accommodate the width of the run.

*The depth can also be adjusted by using different thickness tapes (like cello vs masking) and/or applying multiple layers.

[MrEddy]

So despite appearances I have actually not dropped off the end of the earth or given up. Just took a break while a variety of life related chaos happened (including assorted lockdowns of course). But I'm back at it now and trying to get this finished.

I've had a wide variety of 'learning experiences' with this build, including sanding through the finish as well as having all sorts of fun with the soldering. So the final product is going to be a bit rough, but I wasn't expecting a perfect result on my first attempt. Quite frankly, I'll be amazed if it works.

[MrEddy]

I do plan to package up a bunch of my work in progress photos, but I'll get the bloody thing working first.

[McCreed]

You'll get there! That will come together nicely, and every build is a "learning experience"!