Atl-1sb scale lenght issues?

[Freakedeke]

Hi mates!

measuring my scale lenght on my kit, from the inside of the nut to the top of 12th fret=324mm
So that would mean that my saddles should be at 648mm

But on my kit, the saddles are at 656-657mm, with the saddles adjusted at the maximum

So if I want the center of the saddles to be at 648mm, I would need to bring my bridge 15mm closer to the neck, which seems way too much, I would also need to cut into the pickguard to fit it.

Anybody got that issue? Or maybe I'm missing something?

Thank you so much for your help!!

[Sonic Mountain]

Can you post some pics of the bridge itself? Is the neck properly seated in the pocket?

There is a common issue with the TL kits of the bridge route being about 3mm too far south. You can usually assemble them as is and it works fine with the kit bridge, but often there is a quite a bit more gap to the pickguard than a factory tele. Normally people just slightly enlarge the route to allow the bridge to shift a little further up the body and it's fine.

The measurement of 648mm is correct, no need to measure to the 12th and then to the bridge, just measure from the nut to the bridge - High E saddle. All of the thicker strings will need to be slightly longer so you need adjustment back from the 648mm for intonation.

You are trying to measure to the point at which the stringe leaves the saddle - so halfway up the raised bit between the adjusting screws in your pic. I can't say I've seen one this far out before, so it seems like there might be something else going on? Some more 'overall pics' might help us spot what the issue is. You could also potentially get some longer adjustment screws to give yourself a couple of extra mm if all else is looking good.

[McCreed]

I agree with Sonic's statement above and I'll only add a little to it.

Just to help clarify the correct saddle position and FYI, I interpret the break point on that saddle in your photo to be 659mm (even worse than your stated 656-657).
I can't really see clearly how far the intonation adjustment screw goes into the saddle in the pic, but I generally turn it in until the end of the screw is flush with or just a bee's dick beyond the inside of the string slot (E1 treble saddle). This allows for some movement away from the neck if needed. If you use that as the basis of your bridge position, very rarely would you need more movement toward the neck.

I've only done one PBG TL kit but seen plenty built here plus my own non-PB builds, and would say that is the most "out" I've seen a bridge route.
Would be worth posting more pics to see if there's anything else going on.

[Freakedeke]

Can you post some pics of the bridge itself? Is the neck properly seated in the pocket?

There is a common issue with the TL kits of the bridge route being about 3mm too far south. You can usually assemble them as is and it works fine with the kit bridge, but often there is a quite a bit more gap to the pickguard than a factory tele. Normally people just slightly enlarge the route to allow the bridge to shift a little further up the body and it's fine.

The measurement of 648mm is correct, no need to measure to the 12th and then to the bridge, just measure from the nut to the bridge - High E saddle. All of the thicker strings will need to be slightly longer so you need adjustment back from the 648mm for intonation.

You are trying to measure to the point at which the stringe leaves the saddle - so halfway up the raised bit between the adjusting screws in your pic. I can't say I've seen one this far out before, so it seems like there might be something else going on? Some more 'overall pics' might help us spot what the issue is. You could also potentially get some longer adjustment screws to give yourself a couple of extra mm if all else is looking good.

the neck is well sit in the cavity, it is not fixed, so maybe 1 mm off, but that would not make me go all the way like 20mm off of
Here are more pictures
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZU1visQGbWsRSZXv7

[Freakedeke]

I can't really see clearly how far the intonation adjustment screw goes into the saddle in the pic, but I generally turn it in until the end of the screw is flush with or just a bee's dick beyond the inside of the string slot (E1 treble saddle). This allows for some movement away from the neck if needed. If you use that as the basis of your bridge position, very rarely would you need more movement toward the neck.


The screws are just a bit inside the string slot , can't really go any further

[Simon Barden]

I think we may have seen this before where the saddle screws are simply far too short. In that instance I think the builder just fitted longer intonation screws. I'd email Pit Bull and tell them about it. You'd only need about 10mm longer screws. I'm sure they are M3 screws so it may be quicker just to buy some longer ones (10mm-15mm longer) and try them out.

[McCreed]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Simon has jogged my memory. There was indeed another TL that suffered this same issue earlier this year.

Longer screws are the easiest fix, and they are indeed M3 (w/ .5 thread pitch) There's heaps of room on that bridge plate for longer screw travel.
The usual intonation screw length (on import bridges) is 15mm, so 25mm should get you there. Any longer and you may run into problems with the relative positions of the saddle and the string-through hole.

You can find the screws at a local fastener shop or online (eBay). Probably best to chrome plated steel ones (or even zinc) and not SS to avoid possible galvanic reaction. (may not be an issue here, but why tempt fate?)

Zinc available at THE BIG GREEN SHED

[Freakedeke]

Wow, I didn't even thought about that, thank you for the informations, on my way to buy some longer screws