Dual Build: GSJ-1 and GSM-1

[Bakersdozen]

Haven't done the tone pot change yet as that arrives tomorrow, but reading Mazzajon's JRM-1DC build diary, I realised that I still had the original kit bridge, and that has taller saddles than the replacement one I fitted to the GSJ-1. Its saddles are really about 1mm too low for the strings to sit firmly on/in them. So I thought, why not try fitting the saddles from the old bridge in the new bridge? So I tried it and it worked.

Old bridge saddles fitted in the new bridge on the left, original low new bridge saddles on the right, about 3mm difference:


Here's a side view of the new bridge. Take 3mm off that saddle height and you can see that the strings coming round the rear of the bridge really didn't press down on the old saddles with much force at all. These are a lot better.



I'd be happier if the bridge wasn't sitting at a slight angle from string tension, and in theory there's no reason why the bridge posts couldn't have had those two supporting ridges closer together, or the bridge itself been that bit thicker at the ends so it was squarer. But you get just the same thing on more expensive bridges, and the standard wrap-over bridges from Gibson and the like. But there really is no reason for it, IMO.

But it's all back together again, with the bridge body now sitting lower than before, which I always think is a good thing. About 1mm of lowering possible on both sides; though the action is as low as it will go, so no need for it to go lower.

Simon, I've luck with these Kaish brand locking posts. Keeps the bridge nice and flat and they aren't expensive like the tonepro version I'm sure you are aware of.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKmZZ4r

Can be found on eBay too, search for Kaish locking studs.

Before you use them though, swap the cheap soft Allen key screws out with some quality threads . The replacement ones I used were just from the hardware store and were Phillips head. No big deal not being Allen key, but they don't strip out like the original ones supplied. And you can get away with using a longer thread before you think you might need to cut them down. It's actually handy to use a Phillips rather than an Allen key.

Good thinking on the swapping of the saddles, I did the same thing with the musiclily bridge on my PRS-1H. Some of mine rattled a bit and gave the impression of slight buzz or sitar. It was because there was some side to side movement as some of the new saddles sat slightly above the channels they should rest on. Easy fix was a little Loctite on the thread behind the saddle after intonation was set.