Hi and welcome.
Floyds may seem intimidating, but in reality they aren't that much more difficult to set up than a Strat trem. it really is like a 2-point STrat trem, with added string locking and the fine tuners.
One thing you will need that's missing from the kit is a string retainer bar. You don't need anything special and amazon/eBay devices are fine. e.g https://www.amazon.co.uk/Musiclily-G...56&sr=8-5&th=1
Why? Then read this: https://hazeguitars.com/blog/locking...bar-adjustment. It's a very cheap way to get the locking nut working correctly. It will also allow you to set up and tune the guitar before locking the nut, so those fine tuners can stay in their mid-position until needed.
My FR setting up method (other methods are available but I'm happy with this one):
The easiest way to set up a Floyd (IMO) is to get/make a suitable block/wedge of wood to block the movement of the trem (or even one for each side of the trem block). It needs to be set so that the base of the Floyd is parallel to the body (some similar Ibanez trems need a slight angle but these licensed Floyds should be parallel) If it's not flat in the rest position, then it won't return to tune when used as well. So set the wood wedge so that the trem base is flat. Put the fine tuners in an approximate mid-travel position (well that's my preference as you don't know whether you'll need to sharpen or flatten them later with temperature changes). Then you can fit the strings and get them in tune. Strectch them several times until they are stable. This should cut out most of the iterative process of trying to tune the strings with the trem springs in play, where tuning one string drops the tuning of another.
Now is probably the best time to adjust the post height to set the string action, though you don't want to be too far out at this point. Certainly not so low that the strings are resting on the board, or too high so there's a 1cm gap between board and strings on the top frets.
It's probably also a good time to set the intonation. as this will affect the tuning if the saddles are moved forwards or backwards.
Now fit the spring claw and attach the springs to the trem. I'd start out with 3 springs. The more springs you have, the greater the force necessary to move the trem, and the less likely resting your hand on the trem will affect the pitch. But big trem movements become harder work with more springs. It's all personal preference.
Add some tension to the springs by tightening the spring claw, then remove the wedge. If the tension is right, the base of the trem should stay flat. Too little and the back of the trem will lift up. To much and the back will be pulled down. If it's angled only by a small amount, then adjust the spring claw for more or less tension as necessary. if it's a big amount, then refit the wedge and adjust. I've found that beyond a certain deflection angle, the springs really struggle to pull the trem base back properly, so its best to do this manually if the angle is greater than 3° or so.
Finally you should have the Floyd base parallel with the body, and the guitar in tune. Now is probably the best time to adjust the post height to set the string action, though you don't want to be too far out at this point. Certainly not so low that the strings are resting on the board, or too high so there's a 1cm gap between board and strings on the top frets.
Then double check the trem angle and adjust the springs as necessary. Once the trem is flat, then recheck the tuning, and if all is fine, you can then lock the nut. After that, all tuning tweaks are done on the fine tuners until you run out of fine tuning adjustment, at which point its time to set them central, loosen the locking nut and tune with the tuners, then re-lock.
Good luck with your build.
Post pics, and don't be afraid to ask questions.
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Originally Posted by Simon Barden
