No. 35 is alive...and ordered.

[Cliff Rogers]

Phrozin is the paint man, he does not have good words for timbermate under paint.

[ozzbike]

Phrozin is the paint man, he does not have good words for timbermate under paint.

I have seen the rant...not that this is a bad thing. But I have also seen that he prefers epoxy or CA, and sadly I hate them both equally.

The other option for me, as listed above, is the dreaded Feast Watson Sanding Sealer. It is not really a filler or leveler, rather just a sealer of the surface. But, the crap sets like shitty old epoxy glue and is a pain to sand.

I have done much internet searching, Youtube viewing and I see that a product called "Wood Filler" is widely endorsed as a pore fill option for wood surfaces prior to paint. I have even seen more than one person that used said "Wood Filler" having watered it down to the point it becomes a paste. This is exactly how I use Timbermate...diluted with water to a thick custard, thick shake consistently.

I would compare Timbermate and its water based brethren to a water based version of car body-filler or "BOG." I think I will treat Timbermate and the use of it in a similar manner to BOG. I will apply it...let it dry thoroughly...sand it properly...then dust it off...wax and grease remover it down...tack rag again...leave at least overnight again...then prime.

I then the sink back issue is from covering it and the wood prior to them both being completely dry. An issue not so major on a car as you have air guns, ovens etc.

I just want the flat gloss black surface the best i can with spray cans. I think I can get pretty close with the information from many who have passed before me here. But, with a selective weeding of the personal bias...and my own prejudices too.

One thing I had not thought of....but did read in either Sonics or Phrozn thread about taping edges when wet sanding.....that seem like an amazing idea....considering I blast through stain and Tru oil finishes like they are butter.

The neck colour is an issue I will have to think about. My previous made Jazz Bass has a deep tan colour now. I think I went too many coats of the Amber stain and then with the aging of the Tru Oil it has gone quite dark.

I just don't know if the Cabots aerosol poly has an aging browning effect....or being somewhat plastic will it stay clear.

Maybe shoot some onto a scrap and see what happens....hmmmmm.

[jugglindan]

...
One thing I had not thought of....but did read in either Sonics or Phrozn thread about taping edges when wet sanding.....that seem like an amazing idea....considering I blast through stain and Tru oil finishes like they are butter.

The neck colour is an issue I will have to think about. My previous made Jazz Bass has a deep tan colour now. I think I went too many coats of the Amber stain and then with the aging of the Tru Oil it has gone quite dark.

I just don't know if the Cabots aerosol poly has an aging browning effect....or being somewhat plastic will it stay clear.

Maybe shoot some onto a scrap and see what happens....hmmmmm.

What's the edge taping trick? A bit more detail or a pointer to the thread would be awesome as I am about to wet sand and polish my tele.

I also don't know whether Cabothane spray can poly tends to yellow overtime. Because I was uncertain I ended up using clear lacquer on the neck because of the blue in the headstock decal.

As for testing on scrap timber, I guess it depends on how long you are prepared to wait before reaching a conclusion.

[ozzbike]

What's the edge taping trick? A bit more detail or a pointer to the thread would be awesome as I am about to wet sand and polish my tele.

I also don't know whether Cabothane spray can poly tends to yellow overtime. Because I was uncertain I ended up using clear lacquer on the neck because of the blue in the headstock decal.

As for testing on scrap timber, I guess it depends on how long you are prepared to wait before reaching a conclusion.

From sonicmountains painting guide....

“Use a flat block on the flat areas and wet sand up to 2000 grit. It should look evenly dull with no major scratches. Then I use machine cutting compound and an electric buffer. I normally tape any hard edges at this point as its easy to cut through in those area. the edges and corners will buff up fine in the later stages, the machine cutting compound is mainly for the flat areas. 2 or three applications usually, followed by liquid cut and polish, then something like Meguiars Scratch X to get rid of final swirls. The last Scratch X application I use those little foam application and buffing pads - they work really well.”

Here...good thread....

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post187569

[jugglindan]

From sonicmountains painting guide....

“Use a flat block on the flat areas and wet sand up to 2000 grit. It should look evenly dull with no major scratches. Then I use machine cutting compound and an electric buffer. I normally tape any hard edges at this point as its easy to cut through in those area. the edges and corners will buff up fine in the later stages, the machine cutting compound is mainly for the flat areas. 2 or three applications usually, followed by liquid cut and polish, then something like Meguiars Scratch X to get rid of final swirls. The last Scratch X application I use those little foam application and buffing pads - they work really well.”

Here...good thread....

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post187569

Somehow I missed this when you posted, thanks! I will be buffing by hand, but this is still good to know.

[phrozin]

I have seen the rant...not that this is a bad thing. But I have also seen that he prefers epoxy or CA, and sadly I hate them both equally.

The other option for me, as listed above, is the dreaded Feast Watson Sanding Sealer. It is not really a filler or leveler, rather just a sealer of the surface. But, the crap sets like shitty old epoxy glue and is a pain to sand.

I have done much internet searching, Youtube viewing and I see that a product called "Wood Filler" is widely endorsed as a pore fill option for wood surfaces prior to paint. I have even seen more than one person that used said "Wood Filler" having watered it down to the point it becomes a paste. This is exactly how I use Timbermate...diluted with water to a thick custard, thick shake consistently.

I would compare Timbermate and its water based brethren to a water based version of car body-filler or "BOG." I think I will treat Timbermate and the use of it in a similar manner to BOG. I will apply it...let it dry thoroughly...sand it properly...then dust it off...wax and grease remover it down...tack rag again...leave at least overnight again...then prime.

I then the sink back issue is from covering it and the wood prior to them both being completely dry. An issue not so major on a car as you have air guns, ovens etc.

I just want the flat gloss black surface the best i can with spray cans. I think I can get pretty close with the information from many who have passed before me here. But, with a selective weeding of the personal bias...and my own prejudices too.

One thing I had not thought of....but did read in either Sonics or Phrozn thread about taping edges when wet sanding.....that seem like an amazing idea....considering I blast through stain and Tru oil finishes like they are butter.

The neck colour is an issue I will have to think about. My previous made Jazz Bass has a deep tan colour now. I think I went too many coats of the Amber stain and then with the aging of the Tru Oil it has gone quite dark.

I just don't know if the Cabots aerosol poly has an aging browning effect....or being somewhat plastic will it stay clear.

Maybe shoot some onto a scrap and see what happens....hmmmmm.

Humm a rant hey my question is why are you grain filling it anyway, you don't need to grain fill basswood, as for what I use I actually use timber mate to fill dents and deep scratches I use the white one colour it to the stain or dye, I don't use it under lacquer the thinners in the paint makes the timber mate expand then it shrinks back and it keeps doing it for a couple of months, I use lots of different things pending what finish I'm after, so I see you're an expert I remember that so get on with it

[ozzbike]

Humm a rant hey my question is why are you grain filling it anyway, you don't need to grain fill basswood, as for what I use I actually use timber mate to fill dents and deep scratches I use the white one colour it to the stain or dye, I don't use it under lacquer the thinners in the paint makes the timber mate expand then it shrinks back and it keeps doing it for a couple of months, I use lots of different things pending what finish I'm after, so I see you're an expert I remember that so get on with it

Nice.

It is called venting as I got a result I was not expecting.

Expert at nothing...that would be why I am here.

...end of my rant.