DMS-1 The King's 4th Pitbull build

[king casey]

Strings off again.
I know where the tweaks are required.
Relocating the bridge will also highlight another issue.


It appears that the ground wire hole will coincide with the string-through holes.



cheers, Mark.

[McCreed]

re: ground wire hole - IIWM, I'd plug the lateral hole with dowel then fill the top bit with 2-part builders bog.

No ones going to see it and that stuff is drillable once it's properly set (if it's mixed properly). The ground wire hole be drilled again in a more appropriate location.

[king casey]

Yes, but probably slot a drill bit down there to get an idea of the angle required for the second ground wire hole first.

cheers, Mark.

[McCreed]

I have a 6" x 1/8" (150 x 3mm) bit that I use for doing those. (from the BGS)

They're good because the extra length of the bit allows a decent angle without the drill chuck hitting the top of the body.

I'd love to have right angle drill though.

edit to add:
Should have included that in lieu of a right angle drill, if you have a rotary tool that has a flexi-shaft attachment (my Dremel does) it can be very handy for this application. You have to use the lowest speed setting though, or the long bit gets a bit unwieldy.

[king casey]

I have a 6" x 1/8" (150 x 3mm) bit that I use for doing those. (from the BGS)

They're good because the extra length of the bit allows a decent angle without the drill chuck hitting the top of the body.

I'd love to have right angle drill though.

edit to add:
Should have included that in lieu of a right angle drill, if you have a rotary tool that has a flexi-shaft attachment (my Dremel does) it can be very handy for this application. You have to use the lowest speed setting though, or the long bit gets a bit unwieldy.

Thanks for the tip McCreed. I think I have a long bit kicking around, however I certainly have the flexible attachment that came with the Ozito rotary tool.
Never actually had to use it but it's now something to check out.

cheers, Mark.

Edit :
Took the car for a spin (had a whole tank of fuel that's lasted 3 months) to 'Riot! Art & Craft' to see if I could get another bottle of the red India ink.
Only one they had was orange, but whilst browsing saw this.

Being alcohol based and not water, thought it worth a try.
I'll experiment on some scrap wood...

[McCreed]

That's great about the flexi-shaft. I find when I use it, I like to secure the dremel motor/body to the bench with a clamp or strap.
It keeps it from moving about and makes the business end easier to manage/control.

If you picture it vibrating off the bench whilst mid-drill, the result could be quite ugly...

I experimented with alcohol based ink a while back. I diluted it with metho but found I had to use a much higher ratio of ink than I expected.
I think if I had persevered, it would have been ok, but I had other issues (blotching) so I abandoned it. I don't think it had to do with the ink, I believe it was just stubborn timber

[colin2121]

Interested to see how the ink goes.
I picked up a bottle of high flow acrylic while in Riot with my wife. Testing it on wood scraps and it appears to hold up well. Currently have it on a non PBG kit to see how it holds up. That craft store has some interesting stuff.

[king casey]

Yes McCreed I think it would be wise to test it out on something cheap to start with, once again thanks for the tip.
I'll bear that in mind before starting it out.
Riot Art & Craft was where the India ink came from that I used on my Epiphone 'red period'.
It stayed put when I applied Tru-Oil over the top.
I'm hoping for the same with this ink so let's see how it goes.

Meanwhile I've 'fixed' the position of the bridge.
Still no sign of the switches showing up so I decided to restring for a test.
Low E still goes back a fair way, but much more flexible with the spring.


Don't think I've tried applying Tru-Oil over acrylic...It didn't like the water based dye that I used.

cheers, Mark.

[Simon Barden]

Looks better. You'll need to cut the new screw lengths down or else you'll have problems with the string coming up from the bottom if you are going to rear-load them.

[king casey]

Looks better. You'll need to cut the new screw lengths down or else you'll have problems with the string coming up from the bottom if you are going to rear-load them.

Hi Simon.
Yes, I cut down about 5mm from the high E and B screws.


cheers, Mark.