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Thread: DMS-1 - mustang/duo-sonic short scale

  1. #31
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    If it helps, your board looks much better than mine was before the CA treatment:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  2. #32
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    All I can say is that people use CA to hold things together. They don't use Tru Oil for that. Maybe put Tru Oil on once you've done CA to warm up the appearance of the board?

  3. #33
    Mentor JimC's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is the epoxy primer treated fingerboard I agonised about the appearance of after a couple of months and a reasonable amount of use. I reckon its fine now, but I was sure worried then. In your place I'd treat it with CA, rub down gently and review things after a while,
    Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
    Build #2, ugly parlour semi with scratch built body and ex Peavey neck
    Build #3, Appalachian Dulcimer from EMS kit
    Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
    Build #5, Lockdown Mandolin
    Build #6, Sixty six body for Squier
    Build #7, Mini Midi Bass

  4. Liked by: OliSam

  5. #34
    Mentor OliSam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jugglindan View Post
    If it helps, your board looks much better than mine was before the CA treatment:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ouch.....that one really looks rough. I see what you mean now.


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  6. #35
    Mentor OliSam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    All I can say is that people use CA to hold things together. They don't use Tru Oil for that. Maybe put Tru Oil on once you've done CA to warm up the appearance of the board?
    Good point there Simon.
    Im hoping that mine does not end up as rough as jugglindan’s which surprised be and clarified why his/your/Jim’s thoughts on this type of fretboard were as such.

    the grain on this neck is actually quite tight so i suspect that i may take the lowest stress route first and that is dingo’s fretboard wax. Ive used it on a few necks and fretboards and it is really good. Hardens up well too.

    If that doesnt work i will skip the second option and go straight to pulling all the frets off, sanding down, ca glue, sand down again and finally refretting.
    Fingers crossed. Progress reports to follow.

    Meanwhile, it is a long weekend here in Oz.
    it is a crisp sunny morning and im going to sit outside and sand the body down some more.
    Ill look at colouring options for the timbermate over the next few days also!!


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  10. #39
    Mentor OliSam's Avatar
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    Neck screw alignment issue.
    Looks like one hole is not in line with the holes in the neck plate.
    I didnt notice this before as i only screwed in the neckplatte with two screws at opposite corners to draw my lines for chiseling out.
    Hmmmmm............
    May have to plug it up and redrill that hole.
    Hope that they align to the holes drilled in the neck!!!!!




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  11. #40
    I like the idea of a recessed plate.
    #001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
    #002 (WL-1)
    #003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
    #004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
    #005 (LP jr)
    #006 (TL-1A)

    Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
    'The TGS Special'

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