Loonhaunt Junior LP JRM 1DC Place Holder

[Andy40]

Thanks FW that last one looks great. did you use it for your PRS thru neck?

[FrankenWashie]

Thanks FW that last one looks great. did you use it for your PRS thru neck?

I had to think about that. No, i actually used this PDF below to model it on and then made the necessary adjustments to make it a Baritone 28.5" scale.

http://www.guitarts.de/guitar-building-plan/

It wasn't spot on as it was my first foray into manipulating plans, but I was able to get around most of the issues. (apologies Loonhaunt for the mini thread jacking it did start out on topic for your build!)

[Andy40]

I had to think about that.

Too many builds in the Frankenlab!

[FrankenWashie]

Too many builds in the Frankenlab!

Yes...Possibly..Damned Igor!

[Loonhaunt]

No Problem! Interested any way!

[Loonhaunt]

Does anyone have an opinion regarding the single dog ear P90 standard with the JRM 1DC Kit (LP Jr). I am just bouncing ideas around before I actually get my hands on my kit.

Loon

[Loonhaunt]

My kit arrived 12/24. It did not take long at all!. All was in good shape from the journey.
I began to dry fit everything yesterday and I noticed a few things that are driving some questions. I see that that the neck pocket is cut quite wide thus allowing a lot of side wobble. I am not sure that it would be prudent to shim, as I would have to have extremely thin shims placed either side of the neck. When I glue it up I may have to leave the two E strings on it as I clamp it to assure that I get it on straight? Any suggestions would be helpful. I see that the neck tenon also has been planed with a significant rocker to it so that when clamped I can very the neck angle to the bridge and plane of the body significantly depending on where I place the clamp? I am taking measurements from an Epiphone bolt on Junior to use for rough comparison of potential angles. I am also now aware that I am stuck with the enclosed tuners. I had a set of Replica Kluson classics with nice plastic knobs that I had intended to use but I see that the boring in the headstock is going to be over large for the replica's press-in bushings. I also noticed that there are some voids in the laminate used for the finger board, is there a hardening sealer recommendation for that. When I first looked at it I thought that it was a crack. I don't think it is fatal but it can not be left without filler. I was looking for a project, and now I have one.

DB

[Loonhaunt]

Started Doing things today: The Gibson esque headstock went better than I thought. I haven't been doing any wood working for a year so I was worried that what skill I had left me. Some is back:


The kits are so well made that it took and honest five minutes of 220 grit with the orbital to get the body ready for dye.
I am going to use a mix of Transfast Vintage Cherry, and Dark Mahogany mixed in water. I have to wait now for the dye to arrive. I thought the prep was going to take longer. I also need to wait for some tools I ordered to arrive so that I may begin work on the fretts that are pretty rough.


I was able to find some bushings at StewMac so I can get my Vintage Nickel Kluson Clones to work in my over bored headstock. I am super stoked about that.



So I have been a wooden boat builder for nearing 40 years, I have used Lot's of finishes, Man O War, Danish Oil, Tung Oil, Spar Varnish. I really like Tung Oil, I have built hundreds of Canoe and Kayak Paddles and Tung Oil has been my finish of choice. I have read much about using it or not on guitars, some folks say it deadens the tone, others say that on a solid body guitar that that is BS. So If you have the time I would like to hear what the people with guitar experience in this community think.

Later