If you can find my TLA-1R diary I have a photo of my drill press "contraption" to reach far enough for the string through holes etc
If you can find my TLA-1R diary I have a photo of my drill press "contraption" to reach far enough for the string through holes etc
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
Found that post. Oh, the magic of Google. Not applicable to my type of drill, unfortunately.
My jig worked almost all of the way until I got too confident and didn't double check the location of my last hole and misplaced it by about .5 mm. Arrrghh!!! Used a dowel to plug the mislaligned hole and drilled it again in the right place. Ferrules are not spaced exactly perfectly but it's quite close.
Next, the mock build.
Neck and strings are in and I have a problem. Neck angle is not right. Even with a concave bow, strings are touching the 22nd fret. I could try to raise the saddles very high to make up for it but it doesn't sound like the correct fix. Should I shim the neck or should I shave the neck pocket at the correct angle (sounds hard to do)? Any body here had to deal with that?
Last edited by mcamelo; 30-12-2018 at 02:47 PM.
If you are already touching at 22nd fret a shim only raises the fretboard even higher so that probably won't work.
On both my Tele's i had to sand down between 5mm to 7mm in the neck pocket on both to make them playable.
Best to check measure height on a similar store bought guitar to act as a reference point.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
# 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
# 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
# 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
# 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
# 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
# 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
# 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8
Dont use Dingotone final coats on the neck (unless its Dingotone Neck finish or stain) it wont harden enough for the neck.
If you are using tru oil on the neck, I usually lay a few coats down on the headstock (say 6) then wet sand sand level, apply the decal, then apply the rest of the tru oil coats to protect the decal.
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
Maple boards are usually smooth enough straight out of the box however if you think it needs something this is one of the rare times i would use 0000 steel wool. Just need to have a strong magnet handy to sweep over the whole neck & board to pick up all the small steel wool fibres left behind to prevent that ending up in the finish.
About 6 coats might be enough and then leave for a couple of weeks to harden up.
Need to buy some of those fretboard protectors which i think are on PBG store site and carefully use 0000 steel wool again to remove finish from frets. Best to do this with neck not attached to body as you don't want any of the steel wool fibres getting anywhere near your electronics.
Cheers, Waz
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
# 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
# 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
# 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
# 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
# 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
# 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
# 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8
I had a similar problem with my Tele.Try using a shim first. If it doesn't work, you can always remove or change the thickness. Can't do that when you remove wood from the pocket, which could lower the whole neck too. Removing wood is always the final solution when all else has been checked and measured.
Posted on you other thread
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
Thank you all and sorry for the double post.
For reference, the discussion is happening here: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=9167
After reading this: https://www.thegearpage.net/board/in...screws.1867417, I've widened the second half of the screw holes on the neck pocket so that the thread does not bind when tightening the neck in place (the first half doesn't matter as it houses the non-threaded part of the screw). Definitely produced a superior "pull" of the neck against the pocket. I highly recommend doing that.