Well, it's update time and it seems most of the problems I have encountered are similar to those by Cork and Frank as mentioned before.
Neck has been glued in with Titebond Liquid Hide Glue, body and neck finished with Feast Watson Black Japan and 6 acrylic clear coats, hardware installed, strung up acoustically but no electronics as yet. There are (I hope) some pics at the end here for your comic relief! Yes, I know the cover plate is missing but hey, give me a break! If I had to sum the kit up so far in 5 words it would be "Should have sent it back" but, to be fair, a lot of the problems are not immediately obvious and only become so when construction starts.

Neck - actually really good. Straight, apparently well-made, fretboard is nice dark timber, frets are even and nicely rounded with no sharp edges. Heel was a bit wonky as mentioned before but had enough meat to allow cleaning up and still fit well.

Body - this is where a bit of prior experience certainly helped. Similar problems with the cone cavity as mentioned by Cork. However, the face or front on this one was not flat and fell away by about 2-3 mm at the sides (looks like a victim of the sanding process) but was ok front to back. This means that when the cone cavity is routed with the router sitting on the guitar face, the rim of the cavity also falls away to the sides. The cone has to be flat at the rim and seated evenly all the way around for good tone and volume, in this case my cone rocked up and down at the sides pivoting along the centreline. I glued in trimmed pieces of veneer laminated in two or three layers as required at the left and right sides to even things out and the cone now sits nicely all round.

Finish - the body material is very soft and porous. Even with sealer a test with mahogany tint was terribly patchy and uneven. I eventually decided on a black japan tint which did not come out too badly. There seemed to be small areas of resin or oil from the wood itself so there are a few spots where the colour did not take well, I did not really get overly worried about it as this will never look like a top end instrument and it looks a little worn in places which I like. The neck took colour really well as it is much better timber.

Cone and bridge - the kit bridge piece is way too small and does not provide sufficient string height and is too thin to fit snuggly in the slot. I ordered a new maple / ebony one from Stewmac but made one out of Tassie Oak in the meantime. The action is a little high but good for slide and I can fit and fiddle this one to what I want and then make the Stewmac one the same. In the pics you can see that the cone rout is off centre about 6mm (1/4) inch to the right (closer to the binding). I was able to take some of this out when fine fitting the neck but still keeping a snug pocket. The rest was taken up by allowing the bridge to be just off-centre as it just sits in the slot and is held by string tension. The cone is pressed aluminium and the rim needed to be gently smoothed of wrinkles and flattened but it now sits nicely in the rout with no wobbles. There are a few holes around the rim which fool you into thinking it is screwed down but, like the bridge, string tension holds it down and it will not resonate properly if screwed down. The main thing is the neck, bridge, and tailpiece are all dead inline and the strings locate perfectly down the neck.