Lyn #16 - Bev's Pulpit Tele

[robin]

Well the binding didn’t go quite as well as I had hoped, but I think it will be OK.

A combination of problems including, bad chisel work on my behalf and using too much glue because I did not want to use any tape (even that low-tack painters stuff) for fear of damaging the surface. So I ended up with some small but noticeable gaps and some glue squeeze out on the top.

In this shot you can see some glue squeeze out on either side of the blade and just make out some of the smaller gaps



Another shot showing some more glue spots. I haven’t scraped back the binding yet so it’s a bit proud and it’s hard to make out what is shadow and what are gaps, but they are there.



And one last shot of the guitar with the binding on. I am yet to decide what colour to stain the back and the sides, but it will be a light, probably Teak as I have some of that stain laying around.



I am going to try filling the gaps with some dark Timbermate and see how it looks. As a last resort I can melt down some of the binding and fill the gaps with that, but I think that’s a bit drastic and could end up a disaster. I’ll see how the Timbermate goes first.

[Simon Barden]

You'll get there Robin, you always do. I wish I could give some advice, but I haven't messed about with binding yet.

[Guvna19]

Hi Robin, thanks for providing this awsome build diary, such a pleasure to watch it unfold

Having a limited powertool collection myself, it's great and inspiring to see your craftmanship.

cheers Guvna

[robin]

@ Simon
Thanks for the encouragement mate. I've used binding on a few of my guitars now and not had anywhere near the problems I've had with this one. I think the main problem is having the finish already established on the top of the guitar I am fairly restricted of how I can fix up my stuff ups (and there are always a few) lol.

@ Guvna
Thanks mate. I have always tried to do my build diaries "warts and all". It would be nice if we never made mistakes, but we do, and hopefully my posts will encourage people not to give up. As Dingobass says, "there is always a workaround".

Craftmanship? Nah mate, just an old guy with too much time on my hands and not enough money to buy all the good electric toys. Plus working with hand tools is somehow cathartic.

Thanks guys
rob

[JohnH]

Overcoming problems in projects like these are among the most frustrating processes I’ve endured, but at the same time always the most satisfying once they’re resolved. It’s a bugger, but it’s also part of the joy of making (and while it’s par for the course with any tool, its particularly true of hand tools). Hope you find a solution without too much hassle, but in any case it’s looking really great

[robin]

Time to turn my attention to the neck.

Nothing special going on here, but I just thought that I would document what’s been going on in case Bev wants to keep up to date.

First job on the neck, the headstock. Out with the trusty (rusty) coping saw.



And end up with this.



Not sure how much playing she’s going to get, but I can’t abide those cheap plastic nuts, so that has to go.



Next to go were the plastic fret dots. Easy to do, just drill out the old ones.



I use 6mm MoP dots so the existing holes need to be made ever so slightly larger. The holes are so close to the right size that a sharp 6mm drill bit can be turned in your fingers to just shave of a whisker.


Then........

[robin]

..... after the holes have been drilled out to 6mm most of the MoP dots can be pushed in by hand but there are always a few that need some gently persuasion. I use a tapered down piece of dowel and a light tap with a mallet to do the persuading.

Really simple to do, but I think it adds a personal touch to my guitars.

Before



After



I know that some people prefer the black plastic fret dots on a maple fretboard because of the contrast, but it’s become one of my “things” to replace them with Mother of Pearl (or more accurately Abalone or Paua). From a playing standpoint I have either got used to them or they make no difference, not sure.


After the fret dots it’s time to turn my attention to the frets.

First I had to adjust the truss rod. Easy peasy with my DIY aluminium notched straight edge.



Then tape off the neck and I’m ready to start levelling and dressing the frets.



But that’s a job for tomorrow.....

[Brendan]

Try mopsupplies.com. Had some joy with them in the past.

[Simon Barden]

Mopsupplies.com? You might just end up with one of these

[robin]

Looks great Robin.
Can I ask where you get th MoP fret dots?

Hi Colin, to be honest I can't remember. But it would have been one of the cheapies on eBay. For small/cheap stuff like this I usually buy multiples in case of inferior quality, but so far have been very happy with all my Chinese purchases. And free postage. I don't know how they do it.

The only drawback when buying from China is it usually takes about 3 weeks to arrive. But I usually have my builds planned in advance, so no problem.