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Thread: Churchie's JRM-1DC Build

  1. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by churchie View Post
    Always wondered how the bastard file got its name
    Like weirdbits suggested it's just a normal file with an expletive attached.

    cheers, Mark.

  2. #42
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    It’s a good thing they didn’t continue the expletive convention in naming file grades.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  3. #43
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Those bridge posts typically have too much of a gap between the support ridges. Unusual to find one that has them too small! Adam should be able to sort you out, though I'd be very tempted to upgrade the bridge.

    Most veneer sheets are about 0.6mm thick, so it's worth at least getting hold of some and trying it in the gap. I've got a much bigger gap on my ESB-4 kit, which man even need a veneer sheet on both sides of the pocket. You can always sand the veneer a bit thinner before cutting it out and gluing it on.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Those bridge posts typically have too much of a gap between the support ridges. Unusual to find one that has them too small! Adam should be able to sort you out, though I'd be very tempted to upgrade the bridge.

    Most veneer sheets are about 0.6mm thick, so it's worth at least getting hold of some and trying it in the gap. I've got a much bigger gap on my ESB-4 kit, which man even need a veneer sheet on both sides of the pocket. You can always sand the veneer a bit thinner before cutting it out and gluing it on.
    Yep I saw it as a sign and have upgraded bridge. I have gone with a Wilkinson Compensated Wraparound

    Will seek out some veneers and see what I can do
    Build 1: Non-PBG Flamed Maple LP - Wine Red
    Build 2: JRM-1DC - The Butterscotch Belle

    Pedalboard Build

  5. #45
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    Once you have a few coats of finish on the sides of the neck that gap may become irrelevant. So I'd suggest finishing the neck before you decide what to do.
    Current:
    GTH-1

    Completed:
    AST-1FB
    First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
    ES-5V
    Scratchie lapsteel
    Custom ST-1 12 String
    JBA-4
    TL-1TB
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

    Wishing:
    Baritone
    Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck

  6. #46
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    So do people generally finish / stain all of the neck? Including the heel?

    I though this may affect the glueing
    Build 1: Non-PBG Flamed Maple LP - Wine Red
    Build 2: JRM-1DC - The Butterscotch Belle

    Pedalboard Build

  7. #47
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    I've only done bolt-ons so far, but I only finish the parts of the neck that are not inside the neck joint. It is advisable to not finish the area where you are gluing a non bolt-on neck.
    Current:
    GTH-1

    Completed:
    AST-1FB
    First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
    ES-5V
    Scratchie lapsteel
    Custom ST-1 12 String
    JBA-4
    TL-1TB
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

    Wishing:
    Baritone
    Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck

  8. #48
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    Yeah that's what I thought, and that is what I was planning on doing
    Build 1: Non-PBG Flamed Maple LP - Wine Red
    Build 2: JRM-1DC - The Butterscotch Belle

    Pedalboard Build

  9. #49
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by churchie View Post
    So do people generally finish / stain all of the neck? Including the heel?

    I though this may affect the glueing
    Nah Churchie, I usually put the neck in and draw a line then only stain to just beyond that point. glue wont stick otherwise especially on dingotone.
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

  10. #50
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    Finally got back to the Jr over the last week or so.

    Sanded, sanded and sanded some more. Applied some Ebony Timbermate - probably put it on a bit thick, so had the engage Level 3 elbow grease the hand sand it off.

    I was very happy with the way the grain was highlighted.

    Then it was staining time - Japan Black for the headstock, and Dingotone Butterscotch for the rest of the neck and the body














    Once the DingoTone cures a bit, I will work out if I need another coat of the stain.

    My plan is to finish the body with Tru-Oil.

    So the question is if I am planning on using Tru-Oil, should I still use the DingoTone Final/Finishing Coat, or go straight to the Tru-Oil?
    Build 1: Non-PBG Flamed Maple LP - Wine Red
    Build 2: JRM-1DC - The Butterscotch Belle

    Pedalboard Build

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