It’s a good thing they didn’t continue the expletive convention in naming file grades.
FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
Those bridge posts typically have too much of a gap between the support ridges. Unusual to find one that has them too small! Adam should be able to sort you out, though I'd be very tempted to upgrade the bridge.
Most veneer sheets are about 0.6mm thick, so it's worth at least getting hold of some and trying it in the gap. I've got a much bigger gap on my ESB-4 kit, which man even need a veneer sheet on both sides of the pocket. You can always sand the veneer a bit thinner before cutting it out and gluing it on.
Build 1: Non-PBG Flamed Maple LP - Wine Red
Build 2: JRM-1DC - The Butterscotch Belle
Pedalboard Build
Once you have a few coats of finish on the sides of the neck that gap may become irrelevant. So I'd suggest finishing the neck before you decide what to do.
Current:
GTH-1
Completed:
AST-1FB
First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
ES-5V
Scratchie lapsteel
Custom ST-1 12 String
JBA-4
TL-1TB
Scratch Lapsteel
Meinl DIY Cajon
Cigar Box lap steel
Wishing:
Baritone
Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck
So do people generally finish / stain all of the neck? Including the heel?
I though this may affect the glueing
Build 1: Non-PBG Flamed Maple LP - Wine Red
Build 2: JRM-1DC - The Butterscotch Belle
Pedalboard Build
I've only done bolt-ons so far, but I only finish the parts of the neck that are not inside the neck joint. It is advisable to not finish the area where you are gluing a non bolt-on neck.
Current:
GTH-1
Completed:
AST-1FB
First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
ES-5V
Scratchie lapsteel
Custom ST-1 12 String
JBA-4
TL-1TB
Scratch Lapsteel
Meinl DIY Cajon
Cigar Box lap steel
Wishing:
Baritone
Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck
Yeah that's what I thought, and that is what I was planning on doing
Build 1: Non-PBG Flamed Maple LP - Wine Red
Build 2: JRM-1DC - The Butterscotch Belle
Pedalboard Build
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
Finally got back to the Jr over the last week or so.
Sanded, sanded and sanded some more. Applied some Ebony Timbermate - probably put it on a bit thick, so had the engage Level 3 elbow grease the hand sand it off.
I was very happy with the way the grain was highlighted.
Then it was staining time - Japan Black for the headstock, and Dingotone Butterscotch for the rest of the neck and the body
Once the DingoTone cures a bit, I will work out if I need another coat of the stain.
My plan is to finish the body with Tru-Oil.
So the question is if I am planning on using Tru-Oil, should I still use the DingoTone Final/Finishing Coat, or go straight to the Tru-Oil?
Build 1: Non-PBG Flamed Maple LP - Wine Red
Build 2: JRM-1DC - The Butterscotch Belle
Pedalboard Build