First build, blue widow LP quilted

[Denial]

The neck is a nice firm fit in the socket.

One of the slightly rough areas is the cutaway binding area that sits above the veneer by maybe 0.5 mm

See picture , I take it I will be able sand or scrape down this high spot

[JB RETRO]

The neck is a nice firm fit in the socket.

One of the slightly rough areas is the cutaway binding area that sits above the veneer by maybe 0.5 mm

See picture , I take it I will be able sand or scrape down this high spot

Welcome along Denial. If that is a veneer as soon as you sand about half that .25 mm you will possibly go through and into the substrate

[Denial]

I have been doing some experimenting with black and blue stains.

I would like to get some opinions on how much black dye is required to help the quilting to stand out and how deep the blue before it is too much
See below some photos of an experiment with a piece of pine , starting with a light coat of black and 4 coats of blue

Has anybody had much experience with ubeaut water dye on quilted maple?

[ILRGuitars]

I have been doing some experimenting with black and blue stains.

I would like to get some opinions on how much black dye is required to help the quilting to stand out and how deep the blue before it is too much
See below some photos of an experiment with a piece of pine , starting with a light coat of black and 4 coats of blue.

Has anybody had much experience with ubeaut water dye on quilted maple?

G'day mate. I did my TL-Q1 with Ubeaut stain. I think I used about 5 parts water to 1 part stain to pop the quilt, then sanded it back LIGHTLY! Try it out on scrap first and it is better to have it more diluted, then you can add another coat if required. The blue? All depends on the depth of colour you want and how the maple is absorbing the stain. Colour depth is always a personal taste thing. Again, start light and add more if required.

If you are finishing with Tru-oil, don't forget that it will add a slight yellow hue to the finish. That could give you a slight green look. A clear coat finish is no problem.

[Denial]

Thanks IRL for the advise

I have also been doing an experiment with Tung oil finish over some staining to see the effect an yes it tending towards a more green hue see below a couple of photos

This is a scrap of silky oak veneer on mdf from an old project.


The first is with 1:5 black then about 1:3 blue with about 5 coats of hardened Tung oil


The second is with just 2 applications of blue no black


The third is with a stronger black with a little red added to the black, which " ubeaut" suggested would give a jet black and then the 1:3 blue


I was doing this to see which would help the grain to stand out

In all cases the silky oak has taken on a more of a green hue ( quite nice like peacock blue green) , i am thinking the maple will have less influence on the blue dye ?

I also did a piece of scrap ply with a lighter pine but it does not have a lot of grain to show up. One side is just blue an the other side is blue over black
.