First builds: JK-1, MM-1Q

[wazkelly]

I'm with Waz on the cavities, matt black paint in the trem cavity. I you aren't using pick up rings , same there.

Don't expect to see much happening with the true oil until about coat 10 or 15.

Dedman's advice is spot on.

Give the steel wool away as that stuff can break down into small particles that get trapped in subsequent finish coats.

1200 wet light wet sand after 8 - 10 coats then 1500 after 12 - 15 and stepping up to 2000 from there until really happy with things.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

[wazkelly]

Dedman's advice is spot on.

Give the steel wool away as that stuff can break down into small particles that get trapped in subsequent finish coats.

1200 wet light wet sand after 8 - 10 coats then 1500 after 12 - 15 and stepping up to 2000 from there until really happy with things.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

Shielding paint is best done last after fully polished and need to mask off to prevent getting some on anywhere it is not meant to go.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

[Spychocyco]

I had decided that I was going to paint the headstock on the JK-1 black instead of trying to do the color change paint, but I had a little left, and I decided since the body looks so bad, what the heck. Thing is, it turned out really nice. So that pushed me back to the body, to see if I could make it look a little better. I decided to try a wet sand on it, to see if I could get some of the ugly off. I figure I could hardly mess it up. After wet-sanding to 1000, I got really happy. The thing looked great ... when it was wet.



Then it dried, and it looked worse than I started with a white haze all over everything. I tried wiping down and scrubbing, but I couldn't get it off.



So a couple of questions. All indications are that clearcoat will bring out the best, so clearcoated does it look like the first picture or a muddy mess? Second question, is there any way that I can remove that haze and make this paint look like it does when it's wet?