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Thread: Build #2 Non PitBull Rebuild - Vintage Brand Strat Copy

  1. #31
    Time to start painting. Nervous. One v light coat of primer to start with, at least got a nice day for it.

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    #1 LP1-SS
    #2 Non PB Vintage Strat Rebuild
    #3 TL1 - Custom
    #4 ES-12G (now converted to ES-1)
    #5 RC4
    #6 STA-1HT
    #7 Non PB 52 Tele replica
    #8 Coming Soon: 1970's Japanese Les Paul Special Resto.

    It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

  2. #32
    Waiting for the primer to dry, got the electrics done and tested. All working as designed with the 7 way switch mod in place. The jack isn't soldered, just twisted the wires on to test.

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    #1 LP1-SS
    #2 Non PB Vintage Strat Rebuild
    #3 TL1 - Custom
    #4 ES-12G (now converted to ES-1)
    #5 RC4
    #6 STA-1HT
    #7 Non PB 52 Tele replica
    #8 Coming Soon: 1970's Japanese Les Paul Special Resto.

    It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

  3. #33
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    OHhhhhhh Tonerider classic blues for strat Cheeky!!!
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

  4. #34
    So, refinishing the neck, its going to be straight TO probably. Question with maple being pretty dense, would doing an ebony timbermate help bring out the bit of grain there is, or would I just be putting it on and sanding it off for no real gain?

    Cheers
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    #1 LP1-SS
    #2 Non PB Vintage Strat Rebuild
    #3 TL1 - Custom
    #4 ES-12G (now converted to ES-1)
    #5 RC4
    #6 STA-1HT
    #7 Non PB 52 Tele replica
    #8 Coming Soon: 1970's Japanese Les Paul Special Resto.

    It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

  5. #35
    First coats of HiFill primer, I thought it was flat till I put it on, geez it shows everything up.

    Hadn't thought about it before, but looking at it like this, I'm warming to the idea of relic'ing it. We'll see how we go.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    #1 LP1-SS
    #2 Non PB Vintage Strat Rebuild
    #3 TL1 - Custom
    #4 ES-12G (now converted to ES-1)
    #5 RC4
    #6 STA-1HT
    #7 Non PB 52 Tele replica
    #8 Coming Soon: 1970's Japanese Les Paul Special Resto.

    It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

  6. #36
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rossc0 View Post
    Question with maple being pretty dense, would doing an ebony timbermate help bring out the bit of grain there is
    Probably not. There just isn't the grain holes to push it into.
    Current:
    GTH-1

    Completed:
    AST-1FB
    First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
    ES-5V
    Scratchie lapsteel
    Custom ST-1 12 String
    JBA-4
    TL-1TB
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

    Wishing:
    Baritone
    Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck

  7. #37
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rossc0 View Post
    First coats of HiFill primer, I thought it was flat till I put it on, geez it shows everything up.

    Hadn't thought about it before, but looking at it like this, I'm warming to the idea of relic'ing it. We'll see how we go.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Give it a chance. I think I've done 6 passes of hi fill and primer on mine and its only now starting to looks like its properly finished. I would also highly recommend giving the initial 3 coats or so a week to harden and out gas properly before continuing. Particularly with rattle can hi-fill there can be a lot of sink back. So it will look great initially and then a few months down the track once its properly cured you can see the wood grain emerging again. For someone like me who struggles with patience on things like this it can be hard, but I promise it is worth it.

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    Give it a chance. I think I've done 6 passes of hi fill and primer on mine and its only now starting to looks like its properly finished. I would also highly recommend giving the initial 3 coats or so a week to harden and out gas properly before continuing. Particularly with rattle can hi-fill there can be a lot of sink back. So it will look great initially and then a few months down the track once its properly cured you can see the wood grain emerging again. For someone like me who struggles with patience on things like this it can be hard, but I promise it is worth it.
    mmm, patience. Suppose I can try. I do have the Tele sitting waiting can start sanding that while I wait I suppose.
    #1 LP1-SS
    #2 Non PB Vintage Strat Rebuild
    #3 TL1 - Custom
    #4 ES-12G (now converted to ES-1)
    #5 RC4
    #6 STA-1HT
    #7 Non PB 52 Tele replica
    #8 Coming Soon: 1970's Japanese Les Paul Special Resto.

    It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

  9. #39
    Mentor phrozin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rossc0 View Post
    mmm, patience. Suppose I can try. I do have the Tele sitting waiting can start sanding that while I wait I suppose.
    you shouldn't need any more than 3 coats of hi fill if its taking that many coats your not sanding it enough or flat enough with the initial sand you should ALWAYS use a sanding block and if your going for a paint finish do not sand with the grain, use circular pattern your trying to paint a smooth flat surface staining is a different sand process its a pretty common mistake when doing a killer glass finish and you cant figure out why its wavy
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  10. #40
    Overlord of Music andrewdosborne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phrozin View Post
    you shouldn't need any more than 3 coats of hi fill if its taking that many coats your not sanding it enough or flat enough with the initial sand you should ALWAYS use a sanding block and if your going for a paint finish do not sand with the grain, use circular pattern your trying to paint a smooth flat surface staining is a different sand process its a pretty common mistake when doing a killer glass finish and you cant figure out why its wavy
    Top tip phrozin I've discovered this through trial & error
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