Looking good.
I'd suggest that as you are relicing this, you really need that upper bout edge with the big sticker on to get a lot more of the relic treatment to make it look convincing. That's where you are always going to get the most wear from your right arm. Just look at where your right arm touches the guitar when you're playing, and add a bit more wear there.
That's a good idea Simon. I didn't want to go too crazy with it at first so I could add a little more if necessary. I was worried that if I got too carried away then before I knew it I would have a Rory Gallagher situation on my hands
Completed Projects:
non PBG LP Custom - Hetfield 'Uncle Milty' Iron Cross replica
non PBG Brownstein Stratocaster
Current WIP:
non PBG Stratocaster - Canadian Red Ensign
PBG FV-1G Custom
Only if you had the very acidic sweat that Rory had. I do have a friend with very similar sweat and can blacken brand new guitar strings in a few minutes of playing. Luckily he doesn't sweat too much on stage.
I was only comparing the wear patterns to pictures of old Strats (plus Fender Relics).
Your suggestion is a good one. The wear is looking a little too even around the edges and some additional attention to the upper bout would give it a more convincing appearance. Upon reviewing a few more old strat pics, a few more small random chips might be in order too.
Completed Projects:
non PBG LP Custom - Hetfield 'Uncle Milty' Iron Cross replica
non PBG Brownstein Stratocaster
Current WIP:
non PBG Stratocaster - Canadian Red Ensign
PBG FV-1G Custom
The old thrown keyring trick is employed by both Fender and Gibson. It keeps things pretty random.
That's a good one. I achieved some of my dings (like in the close up photo) with a bag of screws.Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Completed Projects:
non PBG LP Custom - Hetfield 'Uncle Milty' Iron Cross replica
non PBG Brownstein Stratocaster
Current WIP:
non PBG Stratocaster - Canadian Red Ensign
PBG FV-1G Custom
The end is in sight for this project. Although I may have misplaced my switch tip...
Completed Projects:
non PBG LP Custom - Hetfield 'Uncle Milty' Iron Cross replica
non PBG Brownstein Stratocaster
Current WIP:
non PBG Stratocaster - Canadian Red Ensign
PBG FV-1G Custom
Well I finally have her all assembled. Aside from the setup I might just have to rough up the back cover plate and the Floyd Rose.
After throwing on the strings (sticking with the basic 10's for this one) I noticed that the action seemed a tad low at the nut. This is my first attempt at a Floyd Rose system so do I just have to add shims as necessary to achieve the desired action? I'll search the rest of the forum for tip, but if any shredders out there have some words of wisdom for the rest of the setup I'm all ears.
Completed Projects:
non PBG LP Custom - Hetfield 'Uncle Milty' Iron Cross replica
non PBG Brownstein Stratocaster
Current WIP:
non PBG Stratocaster - Canadian Red Ensign
PBG FV-1G Custom
It's only low if the strings are buzzing on the first or second frets. Otherwise it should be as low as you can get away with. If there is buzzing, then yes, a very thin metal shim under the nut will do the job.
There are a couple of points I'd like to mention. The first is that the nut isn't sitting squarely on the neck cutout. There's a visible gap at the headstock edge. So if you can get the nut to sit better, then you might get an improvement in sustain.
The second is that the high string hole position of the locking tuners mean that the strings are pulling up against the the clamping blocks on the headstock side. I'd strongly recommend fitting a string retaining bar so that the strings can be pulled down against the string block. That's how the nut was designed to work; so that the clamping blocks only have to clamp on the strings to stop them moving, and not both clamp and bring the strings down to meet the bottom part of the nut. The sloping angle built into the nut was put there for a purpose, not just for looks. It's probably part of the reason that the nut isn't sitting flat on the neck.
From your photo of the nut, it looks like the string clamps are only acting on part of the string and are being pulled up at the headstock edge. The diagram below shows a FR nut with a string retaining bar - but it's set too high and the strings are still pulling upwards at the headstock side - like yours currently do.
With a well set-up nut, you should be able to take the clamps off and the strings should still run like they would over a normal nut. You should be able to tune the guitar with the clamps off then fit the clamps and the guitar should still be in tune. If the clamps have to pull the string down to the nut as well as clamping, then the guitar will go out of tune, which is wrong. The strings should run over the nut like this:
Unless the headstock has a good back angle to it or uses staggered heigh posts, then a string retaining bar is a real necessity and an integral part of the locking nut setup (though a lot of the bars fitted on commercial guitars are set too high to work properly). So I do recommend that you fit a retaining bar for best tuning stability both now and in the long run and let the
do their job.
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