Wax on wax off

[Andy40]

Hey DK,

The DT neck final coat, should be just that, a final coat. It shouldn't need wax over it (unless you wanted a wax finish). As a general rule, I would wait for the DT final neck coat to initially dry (should take about a week) - i would do a fingernail test on it, it should be hard enough to resist, then because I am pedantic, I would wait another 21 days for it to fully cure before final polishing.

I don't use steel wool to polish DT, I use micromesh polishing pads and have never looked back. If you don't know where to get them, just google "the sandpaper man". cost about $14 for the set and can be used many times - wetsanding.

After going up all the grits of the micromech pads, I then cut and polish with Meguiars and then use scratchX Meguiars for that ultimate shine.

After polishing I then lightly sand the "lip" created between the DT final neck coat and the bare fretboard edge with 1200, and then the micromesh pads as needed.

Thats when I start on the frets and fretboard. My process is as follows:-
1. Get rid of that plastic nut (if you want to use bone that is)
2. Check for any bow in the neck with a notched strightedge (adjust accordingly);
3. Check the radius of the fretboard (sand with my radiused block I made if needed)
4. Check that all my frets are sitting flush with the fret board (if not, put a sandbag under the neck and belt them into place with a nylon hammer)
5. double check any bow
6. use a fret rocker (or Stanley knife blades) to check the fret heights, bevel them flush and crown with a small triangle file (for fret crowing tool)
7. polish frets with steel wool and metal polish
THEN take off protective tape of fret board and Dingowax the fret board!!! yaaaaaaay

Sorry DB didn't meant o post before you. respect bro.

[dave.king1]

Hey DK,

The DT neck final coat, should be just that, a final coat. It shouldn't need wax over it (unless you wanted a wax finish). As a general rule, I would wait for the DT final neck coat to initially dry (should take about a week) - i would do a fingernail test on it, it should be hard enough to resist, then because I am pedantic, I would wait another 21 days for it to fully cure before final polishing.

I don't use steel wool to polish DT, I use micromesh polishing pads and have never looked back. If you don't know where to get them, just google "the sandpaper man". cost about $14 for the set and can be used many times - wetsanding.

After going up all the grits of the micromech pads, I then cut and polish with Meguiars and then use scratchX Meguiars for that ultimate shine.

After polishing I then lightly sand the "lip" created between the DT final neck coat and the bare fretboard edge with 1200, and then the micromesh pads as needed.

Thats when I start on the frets and fretboard. My process is as follows:-
1. Get rid of that plastic nut (if you want to use bone that is)
2. Check for any bow in the neck with a notched strightedge (adjust accordingly);
3. Check the radius of the fretboard (sand with my radiused block I made if needed)
4. Check that all my frets are sitting flush with the fret board (if not, put a sandbag under the neck and belt them into place with a nylon hammer)
5. double check any bow
6. use a fret rocker (or Stanley knife blades) to check the fret heights, bevel them flush and crown with a small triangle file (for fret crowing tool)
7. polish frets with steel wool and metal polish
THEN take off protective tape of fret board and Dingowax the fret board!!! yaaaaaaay

Sorry DB didn't meant o post before you. respect bro.

Thanks Andy, off to find micro mesh pads