Non-PBG RBX Style Bass Guitar Kit RBX-20 from DIY Guitars

[Simon Barden]

It should all be the same stuff (normally a mineral oil with a lemon scent added). I use Jim Dunlop Lemon Oil. The larger bottle (with a felt pad in the top) is more cost effective than the smaller bottle with the spray top. As I have a lot of guitars, I have both types, and top-up the spray bottle up from the larger bottle. It's more economic to apply with a cloth, so I'd recommend just looking for the best price to volume ratio you can find below the price you feel like paying. It doesn't go off, so will last for years in a cupboard.

[wazkelly]

Hi Alkay, great effect with the striping.

I have used both lemon oil & DT wax on my rosewood fret boards and whilst oil is easier to use it does dry out quicker and ended up doing DT wax over the top of some and now most of them have been waxed. The 2nd benefit of using wax is that it holds a darker fret board colour for a bit longer than lemon oil does.

Just my 2c worth.

Cheers, Waz

[Alkay]

Hi Alkay, great effect with the striping.

I have used both lemon oil & DT wax on my rosewood fret boards and whilst oil is easier to use it does dry out quicker and ended up doing DT wax over the top of some and now most of them have been waxed. The 2nd benefit of using wax is that it holds a darker fret board colour for a bit longer than lemon oil does.

Just my 2c worth.

Cheers, Waz

Thanks for the tips Waz and Simon. I ordered the lemon oil last night so I'll give that a go first and then I might try the wax in the future. I have a couple of older guitars here that badly need cleaning on the fingerboard anyway.

[wazkelly]

Good place to start with the oil and if you are happy with that, all good as the wax does require a lot, and I mean a lot more effort to apply as it can dry out very hard. So much so that I put mine in the microwave oven for 30 sec blasts to soften it up. Very dangerous as the part near the middle was like molten lava whilst the edge bits were still quite rock hard.

[Alkay]

Good place to start with the oil and if you are happy with that, all good as the wax does require a lot, and I mean a lot more effort to apply as it can dry out very hard. So much so that I put mine in the microwave oven for 30 sec blasts to soften it up. Very dangerous as the part near the middle was like molten lava whilst the edge bits were still quite rock hard.

Hahaha um yeah I think I'll stick with the oil for the moment. That sounds like it wouldn't end well for me.

[Alkay]

Photos coming soon. I'm doing decals for the first time. Just put another coat on so I should probably wait a few days for the poly to dry out and then apply them?

Might even give a wet and dry sand before applying the decals. I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts on this.

Cheers,

Alkay.

[Simon Barden]

You want them to go on to a flat surface, so if there are any lumps or bumps in that area, then definitely sand them. A light rub with fine sandpaper will give more surface area for the decal glue to hold on to, but you'll need to then apply some poly over the top. I'd wait a day before applying the decals after this current coat, and then at most a day afterwards before the next coat of poly unless you lightly sand all the finish down again to give the new poly a key to grip onto if the original poly is now too hard to melt easily when the new coat is applied.

[Alkay]

You want them to go on to a flat surface, so if there are any lumps or bumps in that area, then definitely sand them. A light rub with fine sandpaper will give more surface area for the decal glue to hold on to, but you'll need to then apply some poly over the top. I'd wait a day before applying the decals after this current coat, and then at most a day afterwards before the next coat of poly unless you lightly sand all the finish down again to give the new poly a key to grip onto if the original poly is now too hard to melt easily when the new coat is applied.

Thanks Simon,

I think I need a few more coats of poly first. Just did wet sanding at 1200 and it was too hungry on the LP(small segment in the cutaway) and they both have equal coats. I left the LP to dry for 48 hours but I think there aren't enough coats.

I've used a mixture of mineral turpentine and poly at 5:7 ratio to wipe on with a lint free cloth.

Just put another coat on both guitar bodies and necks and will apply more soon after they have dried. Poly mix is probably wrong but I saw on the net you can have it quite thin, it just takes more coats. Also found that if I have more poly to turps ratio it lends itself to streaks and runs which happened previously with a different ratio mixture.

Cheers,

Alkay.

[Simon Barden]

It's always hard to apply just a light pressure in cutaways and on the shoulders of curves. You have to use your fingers, you can't use a block. So as you said, more coats would seem to be the answer. But do make sure you are soaking the wet 'n' dry for a day beforehand. It really does make sanding curves easier as the softer paper matches the curve so much better.

[Alkay]

It's always hard to apply just a light pressure in cutaways and on the shoulders of curves. You have to use your fingers, you can't use a block. So as you said, more coats would seem to be the answer. But do make sure you are soaking the wet 'n' dry for a day beforehand. It really does make sanding curves easier as the softer paper matches the curve so much better.

Ok great thanks for the advice. I wasn't using a block in the test on the LP, just fingers. I have seen mixed comments about soaking the wet and dry for a day or so but I'll give it a try again.

Will do a few more coats anyway because I seem to be a bit heavy handed in sanding.

Cheers,

Alkay.