H's LPA-1. How much more black?

[FrankenWashie]

They're ridiculously tight. I had to hammer them in quite hard. I probably should have thought about that before I did it, but I didn't foresee the ground wire just snapping like that.

I'll try to get the one of them out and see what happens.

Yeah, go easy and pad the heck out of what ever you use to lever against eh? Last thing you want to do is put a ding in your guitar top.

[wokkaboy]

Hi H, worth trying to remove the bridge post bush that the earth wire will make contact with. There are a number of video's on Youtube using different methods to remove the bush. Just try and protect the finish where your PVC pipe or whatever you use to anchor/lever the long bolt that will remove the bush. If the guitar isn't earthed properly you will never get rid of an ugly buzz/hum.

[GregLane]

The predrilled wire hole is from the electrics cavity to the top of the ferrule on my lp-1mq. Logic escapes how to solder the wire to the ferrule then squeeze the wire and the ferrule into the hole. I drilled a hole from the cavity into the bottom of the ferrule hole. Hoping that soldering onto the bottom of the ferrule will be easier. That's the theory anyway

[DrNomis_44]

The predrilled wire hole is from the electrics cavity to the top of the ferrule on my lp-1mq. Logic escapes how to solder the wire to the ferrule then squeeze the wire and the ferrule into the hole. I drilled a hole from the cavity into the bottom of the ferrule hole. Hoping that soldering onto the bottom of the ferrule will be easier. That's the theory anyway

You actually don't need to solder the ground wire to the ferrule, all you need to do is just bare the end of the wire, poke it through the hole till it comes through to the hole that the ferrule fits in, making sure that the bared end of the wire protrudes from the side of the hole, next bend the bared end of the wire so that it points towards the bottom of the hole that the ferrule fits in, and then push the ferrule into place, the ferrule should then make contact with the bared end of the ground wire.

[Simon Barden]

You don't need to solder the earth wire on to the post anchor. Just push it through the hole and bend it downwards so that it's flat against the side of the hole. The hole itself only needs to be a bit smaller than the post anchor itself, and certainly larger than the central section of the post anchor excluding the 'fins'. It should end up pushed into the wood a bit by the post anchor, but making contact with it. A multimeter between post anchor and the control cavity end of the earthing wire will tell you how well this has worked once the post anchors are fitted.

The holes are probably drilled a little deeper than the post anchors, so by simply putting the wire at the bottom of the hole, there is no guaranteed contact between wire and anchor. You could of course (if using single core, not stranded, wire) wind the wire into a conical spring shape so that it would sit on the floor of the hole and push upwards against the anchor.

If you feel that the post anchors are going in too easily, then you can always smear some PVA glue/Titebond on them to hold them firm. If you really have to hammer the posts in, and you should only really need 3 or 4 taps at most, then the hole is too small and needs enlarging slightly.

[GregLane]

Another trick learned. As others have said recently " You guys are incredible". Thanks

[FredA]

Check out this post to see a way of removing bridge bushings: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5568

I forgot to run the wire and had to get the bushing out.
Was super easy.

[UpperCaseH]

OK, so I couldn't get the post anchor out.

Instead, I slightly widened the hole for the negative wire, pushed a solid piece of wire up through against the post anchor, fed some solder through the hole, and then heated the wire until the solder melted and formed a connection, then soldered a regular earth wire on to that.

I thought it hadn't worked, but after I scraped some of the black coating off the stop tail piece, my multimeter confirms that there's connectivity from the strings stoptail, the stoptail to the post, the post to the post anchor, and the post anchor to the ground wire. So it's definitely grounded properly.

That said, it's quite noisy. The cavities are shielded. I confirmed with the multimeter that each pot is correctly grounded to the shielding, the strings/bridge are grounded, and that there's nothing touching ground that shouldn't be (eg, hot wires from pickups are not touching ground). The noise mostly stops when I've got my fingers on the strings.

Any ideas why it'd be noisy? Did I miss something?

[WeirdBits]

Is there noise in all switch positions? Does adjusting the tone or volume controls have any affect on the noise level? Do all of your solder points look nice and clean/shiny, no dull crinkly solder points on ground connections? Maybe post some pics of your wiring and cavities if you can't find the cause.

[Simon Barden]

A twin humbucker guitar shouldn't be particularly noisy to start with, even without cavity shielding. In addition to WeirdBits suggestions, check the potentiometers for smooth travel. It's possible that you may have overheated one or more of them when soldering the ground connections to the casing. They normally end up feeling a bit rough and scratchy if you have. I've done it before, despite trying to be careful.

But it still could simply be that you are testing it in an electrically noisy environment. Any other guitars/basses that you can use for a noise comparison test? Any nearby electrical equipment that you can turn off (including lights - especially fluorescent lights or those on dimmers)?