Non-PBG RBX Style Bass Guitar Kit RBX-20 from DIY Guitars

[Simon Barden]

Anything is better than nothing, so if you feel happiest with paint, then use that - but don't forget that you'll still need to connect it to ground somehow in each cavity. The thicker the paint, the more conductive it is, so I'd use more than one coat. I haven't found any scientific testing that says copper (or aluminium) is better than conductive paint, plus the paint is easier to apply. StewMac recommend using conductive paint for cavities and copper tape or foil for the undersides of pickguards where it's easier to get a flat finish.

I'm really not sure how well paint or tape works anyway when the top of the cavity is open and there's no metal cover on the pickup. the shielding will absorb some RF signals but I feel a lot will still get through. The cavities aren't really deep enough or the pickups sitting inside them enough for them to act like true Faraday cages. So here they may attenuate rather than completely block RF signals (though any attenuation is beneficial).

Shielding is more effective in the control cavity where a conductive box can be created, and the smaller wiring holes in it meaning that shielding should be good down to the mid-microwave wavelengths (though some nearby mobile phone signals may still be picked up as they work at these short wavelengths).

So I'd stick with the paint as you've got it. You don't need very low resistance for the shielding to work properly. And just remember that most commercially made guitars don't have any shielding at all!

[Alkay]

Anything is better than nothing, so if you feel happiest with paint, then use that - but don't forget that you'll still need to connect it to ground somehow in each cavity. The thicker the paint, the more conductive it is, so I'd use more than one coat. I haven't found any scientific testing that says copper (or aluminium) is better than conductive paint, plus the paint is easier to apply. StewMac recommend using conductive paint for cavities and copper tape or foil for the undersides of pickguards where it's easier to get a flat finish.

I'm really not sure how well paint or tape works anyway when the top of the cavity is open and there's no metal cover on the pickup. the shielding will absorb some RF signals but I feel a lot will still get through. The cavities aren't really deep enough or the pickups sitting inside them enough for them to act like true Faraday cages. So here they may attenuate rather than completely block RF signals (though any attenuation is beneficial).

Shielding is more effective in the control cavity where a conductive box can be created, and the smaller wiring holes in it meaning that shielding should be good down to the mid-microwave wavelengths (though some nearby mobile phone signals may still be picked up as they work at these short wavelengths).

So I'd stick with the paint as you've got it. You don't need very low resistance for the shielding to work properly. And just remember that most commercially made guitars don't have any shielding at all!

Yeah Ok thanks Simon,

Just from what I have read some people prefer copper tape. I don't have allot of money to spend so I may as well use what I have with the paint left over from the last build. I think it was WazKelly who suggested using the paint. It works for great for me in the fact that I can apply it very quickly without mess. I'm not great with the science with electronics but the tape had a lower reading on the multimeter as opposed to the paint which was a bit higher. The tape I have used on the first LP build took me hours to apply. I do mean hours, a few beers may have slowed down the process but it was tricky to work with but I also didn't have a good soldering iron and absolutely no experience.

Actually you are right too, my first electric guitar is a Samick and she doesn't have any shielding at all but she has noise now but that's probably the jack which I will leave for another project. I may even pull all the electrics out on that one and shield it too while I'm at it.