From what you have said, it might be worth while making a compensated saddle.
You can also overcome some of the intonation problems with a compensated nut, but thatmight cause you to have a brain attack as they are a bit of a mind mend to get right
Strings can make a massive difference. I use Tomastik Infeld on my semi Acoustic/electric hybrids..
Not the cheapest string but they do last at least three times longer than ordinary phos bronze strings.
My last build has a set of Tomastik George Benson Jazzies, but at $60 a set that might cause heart palpations...
With the saddle, I should add you dont want it to be overly tight in the slot when using an undersaddle piezo.
There needs to be a bit of slack to ensure enough downward pressure on the piezo, otherwise you wont get the full effect.
Typically this would be the low E not having the same volume as the other bottom end strings.
Now for a pro tip :P
When working out the saddle slot position, I glue the bridge on then string up.
Before putting any tension on the strings I slide a brass bar the same thickness as the saddle and tune up to pitch.
Then it is a matter of moving the bar so as to get each string intonated, or as close as possible.
Mark the front face of the bars position onto the saddle.
Then, after de stringing, I place my premade routing jig over the bridge (essentially a chunk of MDF with the bridge shape cut out) then grab the trusty Dremel with router attachment and set it up with a guide fence so the bit will cut the slot in the correct position.
This should give you a fairly close intonation, which can be adjusted by compensating the saddle where the strings sit. (I will dig out a compensated saddle tomorrow and take a pic)
Finally, I have yet to come across an acoustic guitar with perfect intonation.... very close, but never perfect.
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Originally Posted by dingobass
