H's JBA-4 Fretless

[wazkelly]

G'day H, 1st coat looked good and yes, maybe laid down a bit too thick but still OK as what you have there looks pretty similar in terms of what I experienced.

If it ends up looking 'Green' again, just leave it alone for a couple of days to harden and then knock it back with a bit of sanding. Once this 1st one has cured, see how many undulations you have before getting too carried away with the sand paper. This is weird stuff to use for filling some of the dips and you will be blown away by how subsequent coats may react to the one previously laid. It was only after doing about 10 or more touch ups that I began to start figuring how this stuff reacts with itself, mostly unpredictable, so lots of patience was required.

Recommend a similar thick 2nd coat, starting at the nut and gradually using an old credit card to smooth the watery liquid along as you go, remembering it is being used as a tool to spread the liquid, nothing else, and most importantly try not to go back over what you have already done as the thinnest layers may have already started to cure.

Very toxic stuff and the fumes it gives off made my eyes water too, even with glasses on. Understand why you went outside but if you end up with a watery finish again the job really needs to be left alone for a period of time for things to start to 'Set' and that's where floating airborne objects can become a problem. Did mine in the Garage with door up about 150mm and basically held my breath whilst directly above the job.

[UpperCaseH]

Here's the awful looking mess I made:



Which got gradually better over about 90 minutes



Until it was nice and smooth again



Interestingly, some parts retained their shininess, and on close inspection, I can see that they're little depressions, not raised lumps of glue. I think those will fill in as I do more coats. the bottom left part of the fretboard is what I'm talking about, the shiny bit above that is from wiping clean.

[wokkaboy]

well done H, just build up layers slowly and give them plenty curing time. Mask off the nut slot so no glue gets in there

[UpperCaseH]

Ah, you replied while I was waiting for the next photo to upload. Yeah, the nut slot's masked, I just had that bit of tape off for sanding.

Here's the result (just about dry after 45 minutes) of trying to do a thin coat and use a piece of plastic to push it along:



I'll sand this back with wet/dry because the ridges are very shallow, but I think in future I won't try to push it around so much as just get it to flow on smooth like I did the first time.

Planning on 3-4 more coats after this, sanding back at 2000 between, but obviously I'll see how it goes.

[UpperCaseH]

Last one for the day, wet sanded back with 1200 then 2000, surface is now smooth as anything except for a few depressions (way fewer than before!) I now can't feel the fret lines or inlays when moving my fingers across them, which is awesome.

The fretboard is mostly staying dark except for a couple of bits towards the edges, which I imagine are the parts that I didn't sand down quite enough before starting. I'm sure they'll come good in the next few repetitions.



Is there a need to make the surface that mirror finish glossiness you see on many fretboard conversions, or is keeping it a little bit satin OK? I'm pretty happy with the way the non-faded bits look sanded to 2000, but I'd be just as happy to go glossy if there's a structural or musical reason to do it like that.

I'm real happy with how this Hot Stuff glue goes on. I've had a few runs, but it's not too bad to work with now that I've got a handle on how thick to do the coats and NOT TO TOUCH IT BEFORE IT DRIES. The smoothness I'm achieving with it makes me wonder if it would make a useful body finish.

[wokkaboy]

looking great H. Up to you if you want a satin look instead of gloss. Sanding with a high grit paper will give you a glossier look so maybe try sanding with a lower grit paper. Glad you got the hang of the glue

[FrankenWashie]

Whoever said "ventilated area"... I'd go a step further and say "do it outside". I did it outside, leaning over the neck. Just before the pic was taken I realised my eyes were starting to sting a little, so I did the rest of the job at arm's length with a bandana over my nose and mouth. It doesn't really smell strong, but it's obviously nasty stuff.

Bro go to a safety store, or BGSFOS and get a half face twin filter respirator with P2 filters and probably goggles. The fumes off that stuff are not good for you, even outdoors.

I've started to use mine whenever I generate any dust or fumes (Sealing the edges of templates with CA, Sanding, routing etc), better safe than sorry hey?

[wazkelly]

G'day H, making good progress.

In your last shot it looks like you have sanded back to bare wood on the Fret Board and there lies the challenge in finishing off with this stuff as it is being used as a sealer to protect the raw timber.

Can't remember how many times I just sanded through in tiny little spots here and there. Upside is it looks like you have a really smooth all over surface to work with. Just need to gradually get a bit more thickness on before using 2000 and even finer grits heading towards a final polish.

Edit, Wax & CA don't like each other too much and as such you cannot hide the dry/raw patches on the fret board by applying wax to them as it sticks out like dogs .......

[UpperCaseH]

Bro go to a safety store, or BGSFOS and get a half face twin filter respirator with P2 filters and probably goggles. The fumes off that stuff are not good for you, even outdoors.

I've started to use mine whenever I generate any dust or fumes (Sealing the edges of templates with CA, Sanding, routing etc), better safe than sorry hey?

Picked up goggles during lunch today, no rubber/filter respirators that I could find but I got a couple of 3m cloth painters "respirators" and hopefully those'll work. If I ever do something similar, a decent respirator will be on the shopping list before anything else.

In your last shot it looks like you have sanded back to bare wood on the Fret Board and there lies the challenge in finishing off with this stuff as it is being used as a sealer to protect the raw timber.

Yep, definitely sanded through! Going a bit thicker with the next coat and I'll see if I can manage to go a bit lighter when making it smooth.

[FrankenWashie]

The 3m gear should do the trick, especially if you stay more or less "upwind" from the board as you apply. I've a family history of respiratory issues so I just don't take risks with it, mask goes on before bottle gets opened, even with the Dingotone.