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  1. #1
    Mentor Chuck's Avatar
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    A bit of advice please!

    My latest potential problem has occurred with my gloss coats. I've got four coats on but there are a couple of "ridges" on the body. I'm thinking it may have happened as it was quite cold when I was painting (yep, impatient!) and my overlapping got a bit out of whack.

    My question is what to do? Should I wet sand them back with say 1200? Should I do the whole body or just the ridges? How long should I wait before doing this (the last coat was on Monday morning before work)? Or do I leave them and assume they will come out when I do my final wet sand before buffing?

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    Completed Builds: #1 TL-1 "Telemaster" (GOTM Oct 2016); #2 The "Maplecaster" scratch build; #3 JB-4 "Bass IV" (co-winner GOTM Jan 2017); #4 ST-1M "Surfcaster" (GOTM Apr 2017), #5 JZA-1 "EC Deluxe"

    In Progress:
    Build #6 N1R "Semi-scratch" build
    Build #7 JZA-1 Baritone

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    The Magnificent Compaņeros

  2. #2
    Mentor phrozin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck View Post
    A bit of advice please!

    My latest potential problem has occurred with my gloss coats. I've got four coats on but there are a couple of "ridges" on the body. I'm thinking it may have happened as it was quite cold when I was painting (yep, impatient!) and my overlapping got a bit out of whack.

    My question is what to do? Should I wet sand them back with say 1200? Should I do the whole body or just the ridges? How long should I wait before doing this (the last coat was on Monday morning before work)? Or do I leave them and assume they will come out when I do my final wet sand before buffing?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Paint ridge 1 290816.jpeg 
Views:	150 
Size:	75.7 KB 
ID:	13526 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Paint ridge 2 290816.jpeg 
Views:	161 
Size:	72.8 KB 
ID:	13527
    what you got there is shrink back is caused by the primer coat swelling from the reducer if you got it in a color coat just let it dry off for a hour or so and sand back it with 600 and lightly respray it, if you are getting it in the clear coat you need to spay it lighter and try to be consistent with your coats leave it longer between coats 30min what type paint are you using acrylic or nitro ? they both have petty much the same thing and work the same way. when your using clear over a solid color not metallic or pearls straight clear looks better with about 10 to 15% of the color mixed in to the clear will give a way better shine and just looks better. If your using spray cans that's not really an option, when you spray anything whether or not your using a gun or a can, spay whats call double header coats that means you spray the 1st coat horizontal and 2nd then vertical you do that all at the same time then leave to flash off remember don't spray to dry or it will look terrible you do that to lay the paint even and flat the secret to glass shine is keep it flat and even,

    Its a bit hard to show some one new to painting how to cram 20 years in to a single post once you get a good technique you will spay a good looking thing every time. if you need any advice just ask :-)

    almots for got to say there is a limit to how many coats you use before you get the thing too soft so don't keep putting to many coats and you'll have nightmares about how soft the paint is and wont harden up properly
    Last edited by phrozin; 31-08-2016 at 02:10 AM.

  3. #3
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    @ Phrozin, that's some good information mate. I haven't sprayed any guitar bodies yet, but I just did another project for she who must be obeyed that gave me some trouble in the same vein as the above. Good to know and thanks for posting!
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


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