Hey Alkay, it's quite dark the centre of the top. You could water down a cedar (is this FW cedar as in red colour ?), or maybe a yellow or amber (light brown) stain may work.
Have you got 3 of the bridge/tailpiece bushes knocked in ? Would have been easier to stain without them in !
Also the veneers are usually about 0.6mm thick so don't do any more sanding on the veneer !!
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
G'day mate, tend to agree with Woks on trying a lighter colour first up as additional light coats will gradually come out darker overall and it is easier to go darker and almost impossible to go back the other way.
In relation to the shielding paint I bought the 2 x 30ml bottle pack that came with an applicator brush from this eBay site... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GUITAR-SH...-IQjyx6fyzSF6Q
First bottle solidified 24 hours after opening and I had to add some water to get it back to paintable consistency. Still got to do 2 coats on both Explorers and reckon there was half a bottle left. Same with the 2nd bottle where it went more gooey for the 2nd coats and still half a bottle left that seems to have gone more solid than liquid. Job done on all axes so don't really need it any more.
Ok thanks woka and waz,
Please understand I am new at this. No experience with woodwork or soldering or electronics. I am trying this as a hobby.
I started this thread the wrong way but didn't know(about the neck drill hole issues, I should have ignored that and did the staining).
Yes the mounting post bushing's should not be there. I won't do that again. I got lost.
I will look into your comments above. I would like to share my test yesterday.
-I used the same timbermate and black ink solution to try and match the guitar body on some pine. No its not exact colour on the pine but close ....ish
-Used a lint free cloth to apply the Cedar stain without any dilution with water.
Here are the pics:
And here is the next one:
Anyway thanks guys for your input, I'll do more research.
And yes I'm going to get that conductive shielding paint. Seems like it's the way to go.
Thanks for being patient with me.
Cheers,
Alkay.
I would like to get rid of that "U' shape I have created again on the body.
So any suggestions? Or should I just "...run to the hills"
Are you referring to just the dark strip through the middle?Originally Posted by Alkay
As it appears in above shots it will end up looking very antique and afraid that colour stain used on the pine may be a bit too dark.
Saw on another thread a while back where a guy did some crazy wood distressed look using lemon juice and maybe vinegar which leeched a lot of colour out of the timber and that might just help in drawing some of that dark bit out of the middle. Best to test this on scrap first.
Only other options are very light wire brush or sanding, where sanding would be the absolute last resort due to micro thin spalted cap.
By the way, lovely bit of spalt on the headstock.
It may be a bit hard to see. I meant the lighter colour thats like a U shape. Just above the green line I have drawn in the pic below:
I'll avoid any sanding at this stage because the veneer is just too thin.
I'll have a look at testing this method of drawing the dark colour out the grain.
Yes the spalted headstock looks nice. It's the nicest untouched part of the build so far hahaha.
On my next build I'm going to be super careful. If you think the spalted maple looked good on this you should see the next one.
Cheers,
Alkay
sounds good Alkay, those lighter areas should darken up with more stain coats. Keep at it !
wow there is some nice spalting on the headstock !
Rule #1 of any veneered kit is to minimise the sanding of the veneer, which isn't a bad thing !
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Ok,
So here's some more testing on the pine to demonstrate lifting the stain.
One coat of the black ink timermate solution again and dried in direct sunlight for about 30 minutes:
Dipped paper towels in lemon juice and wiped to try and lift the stain until not more black/grey was appearing on the paper towel. Let it dry in direct sunlight for about 15 minutes:
Tried the same approach with white vinegar but no colour on the paper towels. The lemon juice has done it. I'm not sure if the photos show it but it looks lighter to me with the naked eye.
I'm thinking I'll try the lemon juice. What are your thoughts?
Cheers wokka and waz,
Alkay.
No I'm definitely not doing anymore sanding at all on the face of the body. Hopefully the next build is better.
You've got nothing to lose so go for it. You can always add darker colouring later if required.
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