While all the stories show your experience with various guitars I don't really know how any of them are relative to helping this builder. The stories about fixed necks has little or no relevance to this builders guitar problem but if you feel you need to use these to show your point then you do you.

My guitar is exactly the same as the one in this build except it isn't made by Pitbull and my settings are probably closer to his than a Gibson whose bridge is 15mm above the deck. Which probably could have been fixed with custom made inserts or longer thread on the bridge screws or using a locknut on the screw that was used to lift the bridge. If it was such a problem why not reset the neck as obviously it wasn't right in the first place but if it was a Gibson their quality isn't as high as their prices.

As for the problems with roller bridges I guess it comes down to if you don't like something you just make up stuff to justify your bias. If the roller stops rolling due to dirt and grime obviously its the rollers fault and not your lack of house keeping skills. Any problem with the roller not working is fixable and any one here on this forum has the skills to rectify such problems. If its dirty then clean and lube said item. I have on occasion taken the rollers and polished the pin so it would turn freely as the finish and roundness wasn't what I would say is up to my standard. I even made up a pin that was used to polish the seat where the roller sat thus reducing the friction between the roller and its housing.

But then I thought does it really need to spin freely and the answer is no as the shape in the roller is better than the sharp edges on a Tune-O-Matic. Having it roll would be nice but not essential but most can be made to roll with a little bit of lube and polish. If the friction against the roller isn't sufficient to make the roller roll then the string will glide over the round surface of the roller much easier than the sharp edge of the TOM. Also remember it is better to use a round slot for the string in the nut rather than using a sharp vee as it aids with the string movement while tuning, same applies to the bridge. Guitar strings moves more over the nut than the bridge while tuning a guitar.

One part of your story that bothers me is the amount you worry about the movement in the stop tail guitar. Obviously it didn't have a trem so all the load would have been in the one direction towards the tuners so all the load would have been on one side of the threads. Actually it would be on the front side at the top and on the rear side at the bottom due to the threads taking up the difference between the nut and screw diameters. The only way to make the bridge move backwards towards the nut would be to loosen the strings. This cannot be done as the only action that changes the length of the string to move the bridge would be when you bend the string which applies more pull towards the nut and seeing as the threads already have a pretension applied due to the strings being in tune then in reality nothing should move in the bridge as there is no difference in the tension which holds the screw in place before the bend. If that makes sense.