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Thread: 1st build - ESP-1

  1. #11
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    Latest Update

    Hi all,

    So it's been a while since i posted and thought i'd share how far i've gotten and pick your brains a little.

    I spent weeks repeatedly spraying it white and then having to sand back as little imperfections kept popping up and really bugging me. It was getting me down a bit and so last weekend on a whim i decided to just go for it with the cans and some newspaper (and hey, whats one more day spent sanding it back -_-). At first i thought i'd ruined it but since then it's really grown on me, i started on the front (Mistake) and had refined my 'screw it' technique by the time i did the back so i like the back more (figures) but i think once the front is keyed a little and all polished up it will look badass.

    I'm gonna stick with it and so the next step is to sand it a little (I'm thinking very lightly w/ 600) then put a bunch of layers of lacquer on it. On that, i had a question; Do you lacquer the fret board? Or do i spray it with the board masked off. I haven't levelled the frets yet so i imagine there will be some light sanding on it anyway. When i was spraying it white i'd built up so many layers that there was a lip with the paint and the edge of the board, i've since smoothed it off and re-masked but was worried i'd get the same with the lacquer and it would bug me when playing.

    Also, any tips on going about putting a decal or logo on the headstock? It might seem corny but i like the idea of putting my name on it. I'm thinking some form of calligraphy that would likely be too fine for it to work well with a stencil. Can i just use a very thin sticker and then build lacquer layers over it?

    Any input would be appreciated, especially w/ regards on how to lacquer and buff it afterwards.


    Also, side note: My hand has gotten a lot better recently, i can now get multiple fingers at once to do what i'm telling them and had one hell of a blast just playing heavily distorted power chords Metallica style xD I almost cried when my hand just started playing the intro riff to 'of wolf and man'. Finger memory for the win.
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  2. #12
    Mentor JimC's Avatar
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    Well, no point in having a laid back understated restrained Expxxxer is there?

    Assuming that's all spray effects you don't want to sand it back at all or it will look horrible. Get some lacquer on it, then some more. Its not conventional to varnish rosewood fingerboards, just treat them with lemon oil or similar, but if its engineered rosewood take a good look at it. Mine had the fibres very loose and I treated it with a penetrating epoxy primer to consolidate them, then sanded then oil.

    Plenty of options for decals/graphics take a look hereabouts. You can get waterslide transfer "paper" for Laser printers, which would be my choice.
    Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
    Build #2, ugly parlour semi with scratch built body and ex Peavey neck
    Build #3, Appalachian Dulcimer from EMS kit
    Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
    Build #5, Lockdown Mandolin
    Build #6, Sixty six body for Squier
    Build #7, Mini Midi Bass

  3. #13
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    You'd typically mask off the top of the fretboard, but a lot of guitars have clear lacquer on the sides of the fretboard. As you have noted, it stops you having a step on the side of the neck, which is most off-putting in the hand.

  4. #14
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    Who could resist more sanding?

    Progress update:

    Thanks for the input guys. I changed my mind once again and decided I didn't like the front, the longer I looked at it the more I thought I could do better. I sanded the front back down to roughly the primer level, resprayed a rough white and then went back at it with the colours, trying my hardest not to get carried away with the black this time. It's ended up a slightly different finish than what i achieved on the back but it looks a lot better than it did, i think my ('screw it') technique had changed slightly.

    Over the last month or so I've put on about 13 layers of lacquer, roughly 5 coats with 15 minute intervals between coats then 2 weeks drying, a little 600 grit sanding and repeat. My photography skills are lacking but I've tried to capture the shine it has (which is so fricking awesome!!! xD).

    I've tried to capture the 'orange peel' texture that it has at the moment and once this last coat has fully cured (still smells of solvent) I plan to sand to 1000, 1500 and then 2000 grit before using some rubbing compound to get that shine back (Then maybe some wax or something for a final polish? Not sure on what/if this is needed)

    Thanks for the input with masking just the front of the fretboard, it's worked and there's no bump between the neck and the board but a quick look shows I've gotten a little lacquer under the tape in places, so i'll scrape/sand that off once it's hard.

    I didn't put a decal on the headstock in the end, mostly due to not knowing what to put there. I may regret this later on but we'll see. I still need to buy a new bridge (Forgot to ask for it in black when i ordered) as the chrome one just ruins the look.

    Timeline wise I'm thinking another 2 weeks for the lacquer to cure, a day to sand and polish and a few hours to level the frets and drill the holes for the hardware then she be good to to take for a test drive. The project has taken far longer than i though it would but I am so looking forward to amping up and see how she plays (I'l be a little heart broken if it's horrid but that's a bridge we'll burn when we get there)

    Hopefully, my next update will be one of a fully finished axe.
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  5. #15
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Looking great. A very unique finish, so you'll certainly stand out from the crowd.

    Waxing won't be necessary with lacquer. If the back of then neck feels sticky, then a Fender custom shop guy suggested applying a couple of coats of carnauba wax, but otherwise, sanding and buffing should get it as shiny as a really shiny thing.

    Definitely avoid any waxes or polishes with silicates in, as you can't get rid of them if you ever need to touch up the finish. They stop any new finish adhering to the old.

    No reason why it shouldn't be a great player.

    Just don't forget to fit that bridge post ground wire before you pop the post studs in.

  6. #16
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    Question All the buzz

    Since the last post i've sanded to 2000, polished it to a shine, levelled the frets, wired up the pickups and let loose.

    I'm loving the look (Though i'm waiting on a new black bridge), the pickup sound is great and the neck isn't sticky but i'm having problems with the setup and buzz. Specifically, i can't achieve a low action and not get every fret buzzing. I've got the feeler gauges and the such (All the gear, no idea) but can't seem to find anything definitive online about setup measurements (Current measurements at the bottom). Any advice welcome.

    I need to adjust the bridge/saddle posts as i'm at the lowest adjustment on the high e before the post bottoms out, i'm thinking when my new bridge arrives i'll recess the post hole slightly so the post holder sits ~1mm lower.

    I'm going to buy new plastic housings for the pickups too as they're for an LP and so are angled and don't look right w/ the flat body. The battery in the pickup cavity is strapped in, i just didn't have a photo and am too lazy to remove the back plate.

    I also think the nut is too tall but haven't filed it yet, thought i'd seek advice first.

    I think i levelled the frets correctly (levelling ruler thing is off screen). I'm hoping there's just a sweet spot with the setup i'm missing and it's not to do with the neck angle as removing that would be disheartening (I didn't sand it before gluing so it's at factory height/angle)

    Current setup gives buzzing all over. (All measurements taken in playing position)
    relief: Cappod 1st fret, fretted @22 (Last fret), 12th fret = 0.01", 0.25mm
    Cappod 1st fret, fretted @ neck meets body 19th, 7th fret = 0.014", 0.35mm
    Action: 12th fret high e height = 2mm,
    12th fret low E 2.2mm
    1st fret to nut = 1.1 mm

    Running w/ 9's, i need light strings and a low action or my left hand can't move the strings. Before my crash i loved heavier strings for the tone but currently even bending w/ 9's is out of the question.

    PS: The EMGs i bought didn't require a bridge ground but thanks for the heads up. I was sure i read it somewhere but went back to double check.
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