Will binding stick to wood filler? - Major screw up due to tools failure...HELP !!!

[Tweaky]

OK, I had the Dremel out about a hour ago, attached to a Stewart Mac precision router base with edge guide.

The job was to route the headstock on my ES-3 build for some binding.
I did a test run on some MDF to make sure I had it set at the correct depth, and testing it against some binding that I had made previously, all seemed good.

So I put the neck in the vise and started to route, first cut was OK, then it all went horribly wrong.
Each time I started to cut, one or another of the bit's of the Stewart mac rig would either loosen so far it caused the wrong depth to be cut, or fall apart.
The router bit for the job [also bought from SM] just causes too much vibration when cutting hardwood, and causes the base & guide to fall apart while using it....it's down right dangerous as well.

I'm beyond angry, I think the correct adjective for my current mood would be LIVID

Since this has basically made a dog's breakfast of my necks headstock, the only possible way to salvage the neck that I can think of is to try and even things out with some Timbermate wood filler.

I just want to know if I'm able to get things into some sort of overall evenness with the wood filler, would using the correct adhesive, would the binding stick to the filler?
Also what adhesive would be best for the job.

My worry is that the Timbermate seems rather chalky, and layering it on relatively thickly to rectify the routing debacle, might make the eventually bound headstock easily liable to damage if receiving a knock, with the result being the binding coming loose, if not falling off.
This also would effect any finish I put over.

Any ideas on the best way to salvage this?

[stan]

i have one of those router bases and i agree, they shake themselves undone....

timbermate should fix your problem, and superglue will glue binding, and i thought that it should stick to timbermate. test on some scrap like you did your routing to see.

acetone also sticks binding to timber, dont know if it works on timbermate

[pablopepper]

Wow, unbalanced router bits can be very dangerous, and the base coming apart is quite worrying. Sounds like a bad design.

Stan, the acetone works as an adhesive because it breaks down the binding making it sticky. I see no reason why it wouldn't work on to timbermate.

[wokkaboy]

hey Tweaky, not good, can you please post a photo to show us how much filler is needed ?

I agree with Stan I would do a test on some scrap wood. I think after time the timbermate may break its bond with the maple if it got a hard knock in that area

[Tweaky]

OK, thanks for that, I'll give it a try .....I'm just glad I hadn't glued in the mother of pearl inlay into the neck [I've dyed the Fingerboard Black and taken out the original fret markers, and frets]...this was supposed to be the final stage of major neck alteration.

It's the first time I've used that router base.
It needs a redesign to have locking parts, not mere finger tightening knobs.
Seems the last review at the SM site had the same problem.
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...1.html#reviews

After calming down, I've had a look at the straight edge attachment, and it seems my router bit slipped into that part, shearing of around 2mm of brass below where the rolling guide is screwed in.....that was the last bit that fell off before I gave up in fear of losing a digit or two [Now I know why]

It seems a good bit of kit till you actually use it [far better than Dremels own plastic rubbish], but it really needs to have better instructions [maybe warnings now I've experienced using it], and a better way of securing it's parts together

EDIT: OK, I'll take and post some photos in a few minutes ....I'm starting to think it's pretty much a lost cause after further inspection, and either better off trying to get a replacement neck [but my understanding is that the necks for the ES-3 are made specifically for each body, so not a option] or a new kit, sans parts.

[dingobass]

Wow.. never had ang issues with my SM router.
The excess vibrations you experienced would be Caused by a few things.
Router bit is worn, causing it to run unevenly.
Tried to cut more than 1/2mm deep at a time.
Dremel chuck is unbalanced.

As for the timbermate question, not sure if it would work.. never tried to use it the way you asked.
Might pay to harden it up with some thin CA glue when it is dry.

[Tweaky]

Wow.. never had ang issues with my SM router.
The excess vibrations you experienced would be Caused by a few things.
Router bit is worn, causing it to run unevenly.
Tried to cut more than 1/2mm deep at a time.
Dremel chuck is unbalanced.

As for the timbermate question, not sure if it would work.. never tried to use it the way you asked.
Might pay to harden it up with some thin CA glue when it is dry.

I was going to post some photos, but my camera's batteries needed recharging, and then when I went to load them into the graphics PC, all the Adobe software required updating, so I haven't got around to it till today.

The router bit was new, and I check the chuck to make sure it was centered, but as you surmised, I did try to take off more than 1/2mm at once, which worked fine when testing on the MDF, but obviously way to much when used on the much harder and dense Maple of the neck.
The instructions state to center the router bit over the edge guides, guide roller, then loosen the adjusting bar till you have the desired depth of cut, which is exactly what I did.
It says nothing in the instructions regarding recommended max depth of cut, if it had I would have followed those instructions and made multiple small passes.
I think the scant instructions that come with this unit [especially the use of the straight edge guide] are in urgent need of a revision.

I imagine there wouldn't be a problem when using the much smaller router bits for removing wood for inlay, as it would be removing far less wood at any one time, it's when using that larger biding router bit that the vibrations become so much that the whole unit can shake itself to bits.

Live and learn as they say.

I've tried the wood filler route over the last few days, and it doesn't seem to be a suitable option, even if I impregnated the filler with glue to harden it, I suspect it would eventually just fall off the headstock in one large mass, taking the binding and any finish with it.

I suppose the other option is to first remove the wood filler I have applied, then cut some Maple or Basswood 2mm veneer I have to shape, and gluing that to the oversized binding route, then filling in any gaps with wood filler, then gluing in the binding.
At least it should give the binding a more substantial base to adhere to, and be less likely of disintegration should it receive a knock, which I have never known a guitar not to suffer from eventually.

I'll post photos in the build diary, as it's been ages since it's been updated....pity this happened, as the Blonde shellac finish on the body has come up really well.
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...?t=4988&page=2

[vh2580]

First time I used mine I had depth issues from it loosening and cutting deeper . I started nipping it up on the knurled grip with pliers to give a little more bite. Haven't had an issue since and use it regularly, but agree that there should be more info around potential usage issues and maybe larger diameter knurled grips on the top so you can get good finger torsion to lock it up. Very hard to get enough grip to get them tight by hand.

[wokkaboy]

sounds very dangerous Tweaky, glad you weren't injured it could have been very messy.

sounds like the last review on the SM site the bloke had the same problems.

I thought about one of those jigs but will steer clear now. Will find out what DB uses he has a small Bosch trim router with the correct bearing on the router bit to give a nice clean channel

[vh2580]

With the headstock could you trim off some of the width and replace with new timber. Have seen it done on the forum before. That way you would still have the integrity of timber when you re route