Lewis

[Lewis Woolcock]

What glue should I use to set my kit neck as the shop is out of stock?

[Jetblack]

I'm not 100% sure, as I haven't built a set neck only screw ons, but I'm fairly any good quality PVA would do it, google it and see what it says. Titebond is another or Gorilla wood glue Im any high strength wood glue should do it, just remember, be prepared to clamp it for a few days.

[Simon Barden]

Original Titebond (the red label one). It's the de facto standard for modern guitar building.

Avoid Titebond 2 and 3 as whilst they are stronger and waterproof, the original is as strong as you need and if you do ever need to unglue a joint, you can do it with steam and/or heat. With the others you need a lot more heat and you'll do a lot more damage.

It's a PVA-based glue but with extra contents that make it a bit stronger than standard PVA, but more importantly a bit harder, so better for transferring vibrations.

A more traditional option is hide glue. It's less convenient to use, but it does give a very hard joint. It does get brittle as it ages, but that's over a very long time.

[Simon Barden]

Don't use Gorilla wood glue on any joint you may need to take apart, because you won't. It certainly has its uses, but gluing a guitar neck isn't one of them.

[Simon Barden]

And Titebond should be clamped for 24 hours for a neck joint or any joint that will be under significant stress. More general gluing requires 1 hour of clamping. (Both Titebond's recommendations).

[Drashkum]

You can get glue from Pitbull which is as same at titebond. Or use Tite bond 1 or Titebond 2. Never use Titebond 3. The titebond should be applied to both surfaces and clamped with 2 clamps for 24rs

Sent from my NE2211 using Tapatalk

[Lewis Woolcock]

Thanks for that on the glue. Forgive my ignorance but do hollow body electrics need copper shielding tape. I can't see where it would go?

[Simon Barden]

No, there’s nowhere you can usefully stick it.

On an ES-1 (edit; see later post as I see its a GR-1SF you'll be making), the longest cable runs are from the pickups to the volume pots and they will be shielded.

Short wire runs will pick up minimal noise, so you can get away with single wires between pots etc. You can certainly use shielded cable for the longer inter-pot runs if you want to, but I don’t think it will make any real-world difference.

The pickups are always the most prone to gather noise, but the kit pickups are a) humbuckers, so remove most of the noise they pick up and b) are covered types, so have extra shielding.

If you plan to fit aftermarket pickups, then if uncovered types, the pickup cavities could benefit from extra shielding, though you’d need to run ground wires to the copper.

[Lewis Woolcock]

Thanks that's helpful. I'm thinking of just doing a clear True Oil finish on mine, however, if there are grain holes like I've seen in some photos, I may need to do some clear filler. Do you think that would be compatible with a clear True Oil finish?

[Trevor Davies]

however, if there are grain holes like I've seen in some photos, I may need to do some clear filler. Do you think that would be compatible with a clear True Oil finish?

Tru-oil will go over Timbermate filler!

I used some Timbermate - pine coloured filler on my tele bass and that worked OK.
I also filled some large knots with some CA glue (supaglue), so it looks like it is resin filled, and covered them with tru-oil.