First build ATL - Tommygun

[TZK321]

It's been a very long wait but the factory finally finished my custom order thinline and it's on its way to me.

The modifications I requested are:
-quilted maple headstock
-ebony fret board
-routing to accomodate a hybrid pick guard, as you can see here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tele-F-hole...fc66%7Ciid%3A1

Since this is my first build and I haven't done any wood working since high school I'll be keeping things simple. I'm hoping the end product will look more classy than snazzy.

Can't wait to get started!!

[dave.king1]

Funny I never bothered to see if such a pickguard existed off the shelf when I built the Tuff Dog.

Just ordered the pearloid option, blew a photo of the Tuff Dog up to size, traced it out and the cut it out with a handheld fret saw

[TZK321]

I just took a look at your build diary. Boy, that's a nice looking guitar you made! That Dingotone looks gorgeous over the quilted maple.

My plan is to simply use Tru-oil on the veneer and a black filler + True-oil on the body. I'm going with a black pick guard which I think will contrast very nicely with the veneer while also meshing with the ebony neck and black filler. As you can tell I've really given this a lot of thought. It's the only thing I could do while waiting for the kit. :-/

[dave.king1]

Thanks for the complement on the Tuff Dog, of the 5 guitars in the rack it is the closest to hand so gets played a bit.

Planning ahead is a good thing, I had no idea what I wanted when I did my first build and by the time the Tuff Dog came along I had a very clear vision of how it would turn out and even then I still battled to maintain focus.

I had the opportunity to meet Redd Volkaert who played lead for Merle and he told me that the Texas Specials had been replaced with milder pups, I was tempted to change to Blackguard spec pups but ultimately stayed with the TR Hot Classics.

I'll be watching this build, good luck with it

[TZK321]

Thanks, Dave. We can always use some luck.

Two quick question for you:

1) Do you notice in the photo above that there are 3 evenly spaced holes under the bridge pickup routing? Any idea what they are for? I requested that all the drilling be done at the factory since I'm overseas and my tools are back in America. But I can't figure out what the holes are for.

2) In your build diary you mentioned that something wasn't quite right and future kits would be corrected. Is there something that I should check when my kit arrives?

[dave.king1]

Thanks, Dave. We can always use some luck.

Two quick question for you:

1) Do you notice in the photo above that there are 3 evenly spaced holes under the bridge pickup routing? Any idea what they are for? I requested that all the drilling be done at the factory since I'm overseas and my tools are back in America. But I can't figure out what the holes are for.

2) In your build diary you mentioned that something wasn't quite right and future kits would be corrected. Is there something that I should check when my kit arrives?

1. The 3 holes will be for the bridge but I don't see a hole for the earth wire, I would have expected it between holes 2 & 3
The whole area between those 3 holes and the bridge pup rout is under the bridge plate so drilling from there to one of the cavities shouldn't provide too many heartaches

2. I used a Wilkinson 6 saddle bridge and it sits further forward than the kit bridge which has much longer intonation screws to get the bridge barrels where needed so I had to open up the bridge pup route by about 6mm ( 1/4" in yankee money )

Do a dry build of the kit using clamps and use string or fishing line for the two E strings to check alignment and scale length before putting any screws in.

I had to drill the holes so I used low tack masking tape to draw pencil lines on in the markout, I suggest you do the same even though the holes are predrilled.

If there is glue in the surface Goo-off ( or local equivalent ) will get rid of it but make sure you don't use coloured cloth as the application and rubbing medium, the dye will come out of the cloth I have a small pink stain under the Tuff Dog bridge (phew luck that time)

Take your time and ask questions, the Tele kit is probably the easiest to build.

The only stupid question is the one you don't ask

[TZK321]

Thanks so much, David. I just assumed that all Telecaster bridges had 4 mounting holes. That's why it confused me.

Looks like my kit won't arrive until next week. You mentioned that different Telecaster bridges have different dimensions. Do you think the Wilkinson 3 saddle bridge will cover these holes? If not, what should I do about it?

I've already got a can of Goof-off and everything else I expect to need for the build. However I've held off buying a Dremel. I'm hoping the pickup routing won't need to be modified. FYI I'll be putting Tonerider pickups in both slots.

[king casey]

Thanks so much, David. I just assumed that all Telecaster bridges had 4 mounting holes. That's why it confused me.

Seems it's modeled on the Squier, which has 3 mounting screws and an elongated bridge plate.
Should be fine unless you want to replace it with a 'Fender' one or even 'Wilkinson'.

If I could be bothered, I'd get myself a full size Telecaster template and see exactly the differences.
Mind you, my neck was a edit: few mm short on the butt end which excaserbated the issue.

cheers, Mark.

[TZK321]

I actually was planning to use a Wilkinson 3 saddle bridge. Will these holes be concealed if I use it? I want a bridge that I can attach the chrome pickup cover to. Are there Any bridges like that which resemble the stock Pitbull bridge in size?

If I cannot conceal the holes can they be filled in well enough to be unnoticable?

Geez, I haven't started yet and already screwed up

[dave.king1]

The Wilkinson bridge should be fine mine was.